RE-Xtreme RC

RE-Xtreme in Max One Videos

2012-01-28T04:50:00.001-08:00

RE-Xtreme RE-DRB at Max one With Tamiya RE-Amemiya Super GT-D Rx7

RE-Xtreme RE-DRB at Max one with Yokomo RE-Amemiya RWB D1-Rx7

RE-TA-06 CS 1.8 OD - Project Start

2012-01-28T03:48:00.000-08:00

Let the project begin, I waited a while to get this TA-06. Basically sold out across Japan. I've already got my entire CS upgrades with my own combination waiting for the build so stay tuned over the next week for a complete build to about 1.8 CS

RE-DRB 1.8CS SSG HT OD - Phase 1 Complete

2012-01-25T05:44:00.000-08:00

It's fresh from the circuit, a bit dirty, but you wouldn't know it. There's enough bling here to satisfy and RC fan.

With phase 1 complete, I'll e moving to the next level on this one.

New "Tsunami" specification will include silver Luxon KG 7.5T and Tachyon in Shine blue as these black components are used in a different chassis.

I'll also be moving to Lipo and Deans connectors for a simple lighter layout and a better integration of LED lighting.

Phase 1 Spec.

RE-DRB 1.8CS SSG HT OD
Yokomo DRB SSG HT chassis set
Alumite Blue Version
Titanium turnbuckles
Hex screw set.
1.8 FCD rear axle &belt set
World Spec front one-way axle
Yokomo SSG long spring set. R:Super Soft F:Soft
Overdose front C-hub set for DRB - 8degree castor
RC Square alloy body posts (Black)
RC Square alloy pins (Blue)

Sanwa RX-452 4ch telemetry receiver
Sanwa SRG-BL super response servo
Motor Temperature sensor & RPM sensor with custom mount.

Keyence Street Jam Brushless Motor & ESC set.
Keyence Luxon KG 7.5T (black)
Keyence Tachyon ESC PK (pearl black)
Keyence Brushless Sensor Lead 200mm

Tamiya Driver.

Wheels and Tyres (as pictured)
Top Line Mars N Model F:+9 offset R:+12 offset
Spice reversible tyre for carpet

Nothing is ever really complete..., is it?

En Route Weds-Sport SA55M

2012-01-25T04:42:00.000-08:00

When I saw these Deep Offset SA-55M. I had to have... 500yen for 4 ... That's only 125 yen each! No wonder I have so many wheels.

In any case I'll be attacking these to match their real world Wedssport style with a paint pen.

So cheap I can't resist.

RE-DRB RWB FD @ Max One

2012-01-24T06:38:00.000-08:00

No matter what you think of the RE-Amemiya FD3s, I have had 4 people already say "I'm going to buy that body." after seeing mine in action. With RWB decals, it is cool and ugly all at the same time.

At Tokyo Max One in Night Mode you get the full effect.

I did have the Work Miester wheels on today as well as others that you will see in a later video, but the chassis is dialed in on these Spice tyres and Top Line Mars N model 5 spokes +9 and +12

The contrasting green is in your face. I'm glad I can run these bodies lower now. I hated the super high stance of the RE-R chassis. The DRB is body friendly and I can the body way down there.

I'm working on a splitter project and the DRB doesn't support a rear diffuser, I may have to install the Yokomo one on the body itself. For some reason my Kazama light kit is only functioning with the main lights too. Minor details.

I was also playing around with my Canon 50mm F1.8 lens which makes shooting in this place easier. I'm loving this lens. The best 8000 yen I've spent in a while. Light is lovely.

On my Canon x50 it equates to about 85mm but it means you have to stand back a bit. But the depth of field you can create is awesome.

Look at that background! Pretty. I'll need some drift stitching on this body. I did a lot of tandem drifting today but I couldn't get in the right groove. Lots of mistakes.

So I did a lot of video and photography. Stay tuned for more of this RWB FD and the Green SGT-D FD in action.

Even the bad shots are ok. Can't be perfect all the time.

RWB G-Force #9 - BBS Display

2012-01-23T22:50:00.000-08:00

These BBS are the display wheels for G-Force 9

Hpi make these larger versions of drift wheels. these are BBS LMR work out to be about 19"

Looking awesome with Advan AD07.

They are also really wide at the rear so they fill the guards, however the wheelbase is maybe 2mm short for these. I'll have to play around with the chassis spacers.

Looking ready!

For max attack

RE-Xtreme TA-06 CS Package

2012-01-23T22:13:00.000-08:00

Inspiration...from Sobaya-san, his Tamiya TA-06 has me excited to get my TA-06 ready.

I have the RE-DRB set up for carpet and it's perfect. The carbon chassis is a nice piece and should remain there so I was looking for a chassis to use as a concrete machine.

With a bit of inspiration and advice from the guys at Max-One and Drift Max, I've got some CS packages on their way based around the carbon / plastic chassis of the TA-06.

Tamiya's TA-06 has taken the CS drift world by storm recently, with the pro kit selling out across Japan. A flood of CS parts have just hit the market so I'm testing these right now.

My "Tsunami Spec" demo chassis is underway using the TA-06 Pro kit as a base, Overdose and a combination of other parts from smaller manufacturers to get the desired results.

I'm aiming for CS of around 1.8 from this chassis, so stay tuned.

RE-DRB SGT-D7 @ Max One

2012-01-18T06:38:00.000-08:00

Today was the day to perfect the RE-DRB. It's looking great and driving great.

It still needs some LEDs as it's simply too dark to see. I installed some flashing LED inside but the dark windows on this body didn't help things. I'll have to mount them properly.

Anyway, in action I'm loving the green and green monster.

With some help from RED S14 senpai "先輩" who made some small adjustments to end points and steering curve sensitivity on the transmitter and some tweaks to rear shock settings.

He was able to get the car dialed in perfectly. I'm still learning these finer points and always grateful for the advice.

I then spent a long time at Max One today, just driving and driving. The setup is good that you don't want to stop. You can put it where you want to now. It feels better that the RE-R did. Aggressive and predictable.

I was able to take these shots while the settings were tested. I'll play with the Keyence Tachyon settings next time on the Tao for a little more N brake.

Driving and Drifting by yourself is good. I find I am really aggressive now. I'm trying for faster entry speeds and more over-steer with more power, but tandem and triple drifting is F. U. N. FUN!

We were able to do a lot of side by side. Being the car following is tough! In front you try for line, but behind, you try to get as close as possible on a slightly different line.

I spent the after noon in a "Max Hamburger" sandwich. S14, My RX7 and the new Max One Hamburger Monster Tamiya TA06. Just a little more work on a consistent line. That's the key to fun tandem drift.

This TA06 chassis is 1.5 CS and wielded by a very capable driver.

You can see some more pics here from a young guy who was at the track today. Tandem action.

RWB G-Force #9 - First Light

2012-01-16T21:46:00.000-08:00

Here it is... RWB 993 GT-2 G-Force #9

Complete 99.9%. I am undecided whether to do body panel lines of not. It looks great as it is.

This one has a real rubber splitter cover and the main difference is the side skirts.

The remainder is the same as the Speed Hunter #34 There are small deviations in the rear too.

Pretty tough!!!!! Damn!!! Got Stance.

Its ready for a trial run. It's mounted on the destination chassis but I will have another photoshoot soon with the 19"BBS wheels.

This one I added fenders in one piece at the rear. Check the photo-realistic engine inside.

There's always small things I want to fix, but time is one thing I don't have these days. I want the guys to enjoy their Porsche, not ogle tiny details. The theme is definitely there.

Get the idea. Based on the Tamiya GT-2 Widebody lengthened for Yokomo Chassis. It's not perfect, but its fantastic.

However there are some small dis-tractors around the car. RWB stickers and lots of detail inside.

I was unsure about white windscreen decal or black. I think the black looks tougher.

225mm of nuttiness. In RC terms, this is FAT! Rear HPI Work rims are +9 with a 6mm spacer.

So there you have it. the second one is done. 6 months after the start. Let's go drift!

TAS 2012 RC Stuff

2012-01-14T06:32:00.000-08:00

Friends at Kazama have added some body kits to their body range.

But this engine is all custom.

G-Works stand had a couple of Z bodies on display.

Both were pretty cool.

Yokomo had all their new stuff on display as well as some pre-release models. 1/12 Super GT,.

Drift Package is still a good seller unlike the 1/16 Ichiroku M chassis which is 1/2 price now.

To build a drift package like this would cost about 60000 yen. the average price for a high end Japanese chassis.

This one is definitely not 16800. The standard kit requires at least 20000 extra to be adequate. Chassis only.

Team Orange Laurel is coming. this will be a hit.

Enkei RP-F1 wheels will be also here. Maybe we shall see a Suenaga RX-8 soon after.

Kuniaki's Mark X is another big sedan body. These have a huge following in Japan.

Weds wheels will be added to this one.

But I'm still eyeing the BN sports Samurai FC. Although the Speed way pal body is simply RAD!

This sticker set is also now available for the S15 from SGC on display at the singapore changi circuit stand.

Enjoy 2012... it's just starting and there's going to be soooooo much new stuff this year, you wont be able to tell what is what anymore.

RE-DP CS Project

2012-01-11T06:19:00.000-08:00

The RWB team is all Yokomo. While I am running a DRB, the other guys (Porsche) have only older Drift Package cars. These are not junk. They just need a bit of setting up. I've been looking at cost effective ways to upgrade to get good reliable CS able chassis for them. Today was a setup and test of an old chassis.

This is one of them. Still needs a good clean up, I've installed a Yokomo FCD 1.5 gearset in the rear, I'm using the one way shaft rather than front axle just because it's what we have from before and most importantly Team Suzuki steering cranks. These give great steering control without hitting the diff cases.

Power wise is all Yokomo. 19T D1Sp and SCR 8T ESC.

After using my Keyence setup, I forget things get hot. Keyence simply doesn't raise a sweat. These get hot to the touch. ESC has a temp cutout, but I didn't reach it yet at max one. Maybe a faster circuit.

Anyway, the ESC doesn't have a neutral brake. so that means you have to use a lot of finger action. That is like driving a old car without driver aids. haha. So the other guys will have to work a bit harder to change direction that's all. And I'll get lazy or turn off my N brake (I only run 20%) for consistency.

I played around with settings today. The current shocks need some work. Longer seats so they can have less pre-load and it needs some more weight up front. Rear rotation is super quick. I actually taped a old 540 motor on the front of the chassis to slow it down. The extra weight working superbly, but I should be able to sort that with shock settings.

I also crashed and broke a drive pin in the front axle. 3wd doesn't work so well. HAHA. but quickly replaced and going again.

We'll be getting the two RWB Porsches together soon on the RE-DPs and join my RE-DRB on Kazama's relatively safe track until the guys get up to speed with their new CS packages. The test body is ready for action.

RWB G-Force #9 - Progress Update

2012-01-11T04:37:00.000-08:00

YAAAA! RWB in the house!!! Just lights and vents to go, then I can add the rubber front as the finishing touch.

the panel gaps I tried with ABC hobby 0.2mm tape but they didn't look good and they didn't stick to the poly carbonate paint. Black on this body is too dark so they need to be grey. I think a pencil may be good.

Some colour. Some mirror.

It now has the engine installed and the rear number plate as well as two fat titanium look exhausts.

And of course the interior and driver.

RE-DRB Super GT-D RX-7 @ Max One

2012-01-10T06:44:00.000-08:00

Tonight turned out to be quite special.

I took the Super GT-D1 Spec RX7 down to Max one. I love this body it's small and really has that Tuned FD look. It needs LED though to make it easier to see in the darkness.

A few details first. I made some small team stickers like Japanese drift team stickers. I gave some to Kuni-san from Max-One too.

I added a couple to my chassis as well.

Anyway... I headed up to route 701 and did some testing. first with tyres and then springs. I couldn't get the feeling for the chassis early on. So I tired softer springs and it helped a lot.

The Yokomo SSG spec long springs really make the Active rebound dampers work more effectively. It's now soft and subtle. I had to raise the rear of the body one notch as the springs allow a little more drop than before.

But it made a difference. I was able to get into it a bit more. But my driving still needs work. I get on the power too much. I need to be more calculated.

Tonight, it was a chance to run with the big dogs. Some big names in Japanese RC drift were in attendance. These guys are awesome, their focus and lack of mistakes is enviable.

Sometimes, it was good just to sit back and watch, other times, try and join in the fun. Everyone is enjoying themselves.

You have to admire a drift package weighing 1.5Kg and stick controls. Especially when it runs lap after lap without mistake from the driver. 2.0 CS conversion with front one way and lots of weight added. When off throttle the car stops quickly allowing more power to be used. 10.5T still gets this thing rocking.

Others run ota-zeon custom setups of various config, but you'd never know from the body. All running JZX100 chasers within mm of each other on track in an awesome display.

My videos weren't too good today, but you can be sure of coverage. There were cameras everywhere.

RWB G-Force #9 - Progress Update

2012-01-10T06:11:00.000-08:00

It's time to get serious with the G-Force #9 RWB Porsche. Almost 6 months since start. One more day should complete it.

Cobalt Grey with flat clear coat. I will be doing the panel lines on this one and then updating the 34 also.

So close I can smell it. ... haha. the paint is fresh!

Super GT-D FD3s RX-7

2012-01-09T22:32:00.000-08:00

RE-Amemiya M7 RE-Xtreme RC Tamiya Super GT-D FD3s RX7! What a delicious mouthful.

New Top Line Wheels. +9 and +12 rear mounted on my Yokomo DRB. this body cannot go lower. It's on the chassis towers as it is.

That leave space for suspension squat and massive angle! The body is tiny and much more scale than any of the other FD3s out there.

The rear mixi stance is not really necessary, I actually got these wheels for another body but they look great on here.

For a more subtle approach, these Spice TE37SL are pretty cool too.

These wheels have a lot of space inside and would be good for brake disks if you wanted to do that. These are +8 offset so they tuck a little.

They look not bad on here, but I think a white car would have a place for these. I have one of those too.

The real wheels are these white monsters. they are really the perfenct match for the car, but It may end up being one of those bodies where I can run green and white. I'll try that later.

Whites are +9 at the rear. 3mm make a difference. I've also changed my body pins to Eagle Racing clips and Square Brand cables. Sometimes mix and match is good.

The contrast of the white looks pretty good.

My driver is inside. Looks complete. maybe I'll add a small f1 body and steering wheel or some custom arms hooked up to the steering.

The remnants of the RE-R spur gear remain. I'm so happy I can run these bodies properly.

RE-R vs DRB Comparison

2012-01-09T07:55:00.000-08:00

Yokomo DRB Hyper Drive SSG HT 1.8
vs
D-Like RE-R Weight Shift Master (X) Silver Version 1.67

Here is a look at the same type of performance. High end drift chassis.

Similarities.
Front Midship, Twin Belt 4WD Counter Steer Drift Machines.
Modified for CS with similar ratios, Front One Way Axle, Rear Rigid Axle.
45~50 Degrees of steering angle steering servo mid mounting.

Cross mounted battery position.
front belt has no tensioner, rear belt have tensioner.

STEERING

RE-R had to be modified to get super fast response. The CE-RX steering was installed.
Basically now they both get a twin rail steering setup. Pivoting from a rearward position.

Presentation wise the DRB kicks ass here, but I have already found some parts shaking loose, so I'll need some thread lock on those. no drama. Both use Drift package style suspension.

RE-R and DRB require upgrades for castor and steering arms. these are interchangeable.

Major Differences in the centre chassis.
RE-R is simple. The Alloy pieces are 4. Motor and front axle are a single piece.
DRB has 14 in the main frame alone!!!!

I love the simplicity of the RE-R but the mounting of the belt pulleys above the motor is not ideal.
with the motor moving up or down you are really changing the CG with a small pinion. I actually found the motor was quite high with a small pinion.

The DRB is much more adjustable in this area. The motor is always LOW and the weight is kept low in the car. They definitely behave differently. A car that rolls a little more can be a bit more lively that one that pivots using harder springs etc.

This is totally user choice.

BUT

RE-R cannot only run a limited body selection as the spur gear really is high. I cut a slot 40mm long in my Tamiya RX7 body to accommodate the spur from the RE-R. In the DRB it's way below body line.

If you like low bodies, you can almost ignore a whole bunch of chassis from your list.

Almost all RE-R runners cut their bodies high, run less effective gearing or a BIG CHASER or Giant almost 1/9th scale Hachi-Roku

Rear section is very similar. It'd be hard to pick them at a glance. But the DRB is not supplied with a bumper at all and mounting one looks difficult. You may be able to hang a bumper under the rear post.

RE-R is not supplied with a bumper like the DRB, but it does accommodate Drift package items and the Street Jam diffuser fits also. This is an option.

DRB battery clamp is good. Belt drive runs on the left. RE-R on the Right. CS gears are similar, but the DRB runs a smaller setup.

RE-R reommends to use bigger pulleys for CS rather than smaller ones. 20/32 vs DRB 15/??

Originally these were all 50:50 drive. It's only been in the last 6 months that packages are being offered already set up for CS or FCD

This can be a 10,000 yen or $100 dollar saving from before. Basic parts required are One Way, Rear axle, Drive Pulley and belt, then Spur and Pinion to match.

D.I.Y is going to cost extra.

So the RE-R is a Drift Package conversion. And therefore, it ends up being converted into something like the RC-ART CE-RX with Yokomo suspension.

If you already have a TUNED drift package. Then you will still need 50000+ to build one CS capable.

The DRB is around 68000 with Camber maybe 75000 retail, but there are many deals around. It's pretty perfect out of the box.

Compare it to a CE-RX white wolf and I'd say extremely similar. It totally comes down to your preference.

The only major draw back of most midship designs is the spur gear. If you like low sleek body designs. Do get a DRB.

Both are top level and allow you run at the pointy end of the field.

The way I see it at the moment.

These are the TOP Japanese belt chassis. I've driven most and seen them all in action.

3 belt designs...
Street Jam OTA-R3R
Kazama Auto GP-XR (essentially the same as R3R)
Entry level is OT-AR31.
Tamiya T-06 with conversion. Eagle/Overdose

2 belt designs...
ARD CER-D11
RC ART CE-RX White Wolf

RC ART CE-R Chrimson Lightening
D-Like RE-R Conversion
Yokomo DRB HT SSG Hyper Drive. (early models had issues so should be avoided)
Tamiya VDF

There are a heap of Tamiya and Yokomo conversions out there too.

Enjoy your selection.

RE-DRB 1.8CS SSG HT OD - Chassis Details

2012-01-09T06:38:00.000-08:00

I am finally finishing the DRB and the small details make all the difference.

Check the drive shaft cups. The BD5 Welc-Spec one way from Yokomo is a bit ugly. The blue is a bit off and the machined parts don't really match. The drive cups are also raw alloy.

I had some old Drift package blue protectors, so I glued them in. The finish the front end nicely. The second thing I did, was the body mounts. I already had a spare set of Square brand, black alloy, adjustable posts. So I cut the original posts to accept these. They just make things smoother.

I'm all for easy... especially where body posts and pins are concerned. Tiny silver body pins SUCK! I utilized these Square brand, light, but large grip-able, alloy pins. Again matching well.

Down the back, I've also kept things under control. As soon as I lay things on a table... they are lost. So I added an Eagle tether from a set of body pins (I used the blue pins on Square cables) which allows my battery retainer to always stay somewhere useful. I used the other end to keep the aerial under control.

Keyence Motor cables were already fitted with Kawada connectors, The length is now just right to run under the chassis. Super clean. I'll clean up the servo soon with an overdose bell-crank.

I really hate wires, I've managed to hide things pretty well. Even with Yokomo light kit, 2 telemetry sensors, ESC and battery terminals. Spur gear sensor has a servo mounting crank... Sanwa users note! I just need a couple more blue screws. The red anodized ones stand out like a beacon.

I still need access for the ESC interface too so I can't be too clean. I had an old play-station photograph sticker I added for fun.

The last thing I added is a drivers head. When I see rc cars without drivers in pictures and videos, they simply look strange. I somehow managed to have leftover parts to somehow make an arm to the centre of the chassis. The DRB upper deck has two spare holes for something. I'll use one. I have to redo the visor and paint the helmet,

But for now all thats left is spring setting. THE RE-Xtreme RE-DRB IS DONE!

I'll take it outside tomorrow for some real shots.

The Martians!

2012-01-09T06:16:00.000-08:00

My eyes have been taking a hammering recently, trying to spot black wheels from a distance and see how much angle you are running from miles away is a bit tricky.

The solution is white or super bright wheels! These Top Line, Drift Fighter [Mars] N Models are +9 for the front and +12 for the rear.

They will find a home on the Mazdaspeed speed 210mm FD3s, but for now I have them on the Super GT-D fd and they look awesome poking out!

Mounted on spice carpet tyres with O rings of course.

RE-DRB 1.8CS SSG HT OD - Chassis

2012-01-07T07:38:00.000-08:00

So I collected some missing pieces to finish off the DRB chassis. Basically I needed a Keyence long brush-less motor cable.

Above picture was a work in progress.

In my shakedown the other day, the esc and servo were on the same side. Not ideal for balance. So now I have everything where it should be. Left side has the Sanwa SRG-BL servo, centre has the Sanwa RX-461 Receiver and Right has the Keyence Tachyon ESC. I'll get it one the corner weight scales next time I'm at Max One to check how close it is.

I added a bigger battery release pin in blue to match the chassis and tidied up as best I could.

Eventually I'll re-wire some more things and change the battery plugs. I hate wires...

It's really small without the bumper at the moment. I think it looks great!

Maybe I'll try and modify a rear street jam diffuser eventually for the rear, and a soft bumper up front, but right now it's pretty close to complete. Springs will be next. Longer and Softer. I might stick to white colour though.

I've mounted the Tamiya Super GT-D RX-7 which is a super small body. I added some Spice TE-37 SL in Bronze Metallic. More on these later.

RE-RX-7 @ MAX ONE

2012-01-06T05:16:00.000-08:00

Big thanks to Kuni for making this. I love the slow mo!

It was a nice birthday present.

This is the D-Like RE-R CS 1.67 With CE-RX steering Keyence 7.5T Brushless and Sanwa MT4

RE-DRB 1.8 CS SSG HT OD - Shakedown @ Max One

2012-01-04T06:29:00.001-08:00

Yokomo RE-DRB 1.8 CS Hogh Traction Overdose Shakedown @ Max One with Inital D Project D Takumi 7.

Of course the splitter is big and already broken where the original cracks in this old body were. but it's holding together well.

I'll start with the body. I originally tried it with 3mm Offset Advan RS wheels, but I couldn't see the black rims well. It's a problem at this dark course.

Because the DRB is not adjustable for wheelbase in the front, only at the rear, I had to trim the front wheel arches to allow for +9 offset clearance with 8 degree camber. The turnbuckles are at maximum position at the front and back.

I could run +12 on the rear but for now this is ideal with the Top Line Moon N model Wheels

The RE-Amemiya style slashes look great with the SpeedHunters / RE-Xtreme / and G-Reddy logos. As this was just the shakedown for the chassis, The body posts are new and as yet untrimmed.

LED lights look great through the sleek lights but I may increase the opening angle for more illumination. But during mid-drift It looks AWESOME! The bright Yellow is great and easy to see exactly what the car is doing.

So how is the Yokomo DRB out of the box. I must say, very impressive! It feels a little different to the RE-R. Not as "punchy" but that's just gearing. I also have to use a little more brake and accel. But this is on the normal spring settings from Yokomo. The slow rebound pistons don't really work with these springs. The whole car needs to be softer for carpet. It tends to stay flat rather than bite into the corners.

But it's great. Everything simply works. I had a small issue with gear belt pulley (that wasn't tight) but after tightening the grub screw, it was ALL ok.

I was very tentative at first, but soon found it was easy to control and I was joining in the fun on a busy night.

At the end I was having fun in some tandem and triple and quad drifting. Crashes are fun too! Gomen Nasai.

So now I need to get some springs and then practice more. That is all. I didn't take any pictures of the chassis because it's not set up as I want it. I need a longer brush-less sensor cable before I show it.

I've updated the full build here -> RE-DRB

RE-DRB 1.8 CS SSG HT OD - Build

2012-01-02T08:26:00.000-08:00

Here is the RE-DRB 1.8 CS SSG HT OD build in pictures.

This version is the Hyper Drive High Traction SSG Special with Front One Way included.

This includes. (translated from box)

SSG High Traction main Chassis and Upper Deck, Front and Rear Damper Stay
Hyper Centre Bridge and Centre Bulkhead
Titanium turnbuckle and Tie Rod Ends
Blue Aluminium front and rear bulkhead

Blue Aluminium Hyper Motor Mount
Aluminim Oil Shock

Front One Way Included.

But there was also a special offer inside the box. a FCD gear set of your choice for free. I sent away and it arrived in two days.

So now there are these parts.

and the 1.8 cs drive pulley

Now everyone has been recommending these Overdose bearing C Hub and Camber steering knuckle set. Extra cost. But you have to replace the stock ones anyway for more castor anyway.

This is the new chassis.

Plenty of space for a large spur.

the first step in the build is the case chassis.

the battery holder is also included at this point. The clip will be replaced with something more useful soon or maybe just a tether will be added.

Rear adjustable bulkheads are next.

And it starts to take shape.

Next up is the main drive unit and motor mount. You need to start to use the CS belt at this point.

Because once it's on, maintenance becomes difficult.

This is the main drive close up. The cover for the spur is quite nice. but that will soon be replaced with a better size. There are still parts you need based on preference.

You end up with these. The rear rigid axle can be deleted at this point as the CS axle will be used.

So you get some leftovers early on in the build.

Note how the adjustment is done for initial tension.

There's a small spring and single ball under the crescent for clicking into position. Over designed maybe.

The front pulleys in place. main pulleys are both 15T

Next up are the ancillary hyper drive parts and servo parts.

these are the caps for the bulkheads which also hold the damper stays. Adjusting tension is going to be difficult once it's all together.

So with the belts in and the axles clamped, its smooth.

Next up is the secondary tensioner.

and steering which is also part of the main Hyper drive bridge.

It seems that everything in the DRB is interconnected which is clean for presentation, but not good for maintenance. Hopefully not too much is needed.

steering hangs under the bridge. The bridge binds all the chassis together.

Next is servo saver (the cheapest part of the kit.) I think an Overdose servo set will replace this.

More turnbuckles now installed for suspension setting.

These are the main parts in the suspension set.

These are the replacements and the parts to be replaced.

Front Set looks great. L and R are printed on these and they have nice machined sections.

Detail is nice.

So it's now looking like a chassis. Next up are the dampers.

Everyone hates building dampers because there's a lot of threads that are hard to grip and a lot of parts that get repetitive.

Exploded view... you can see I've already made the pistons.

These are Active Hobby slow rebound pistons for DRB. Actually they should be called high bound. Because in theory they are faster to compress than decompress.

Stock Springs are pink and black with two different weight oils front and rear. Maybe good for asphalt, but for carpet, springs are too hard.

Anyway, something for the future or target surface.

Simple snap on the base and one screw on the top mount. Easy.

The final bag in the set is #14 that's the bumper and posts.

unfortunately the front bumper is not thick enough to match the posts. so a drift package item will need to be purchased or replace the set. It's the only poor piece in this impressively easy build and it comes right at the end.

Anyway, chassis is complete so I'll walk you around the chassis in pics.

45 degree steering equipped with Overdose R88 C Cup set with ball bearing inserts. Yokomo High Spec drive shafts, Alloy wheel clamps and aluminium wheel nuts. Alloy dampers and titanium turnbuckles.

BD5 Spec one way drive pulley axle. SSG front and rear damper towers.

Hyper Drive Bridge and belt tensioner set. Spur gear has an a aluminium cover plate. All screws are Hex wrench.

SSG chassis can accommodate a large spur of around 92T Aluminium motor mount and servo mounts.

Note... you need to remove the pinion to remove the motor.

Rear pulley tensioner has no teeth to avoid slippage. lower suspension mounts are 0 deg front and 3.5 deg rear. Front is not adjustable for wheelbase. Rear is 3mm adjustable. High Traction chassis is quite small design at the rear.

Rear drive-shafts use the plastic cup system for reduction in play. Front one way cannot use this. Rear 1.8 FCD drive pulley and alloy axle is used in this build.

Battery holder incorporates an single Body Pin for release and two thick rubber bands for mounting.

Damper mounts are aluminium top and a ball end at the bottom.

So thats it. Finished. I hope you get an appreciation for the DRB. It is worth the money compared to many other chassis on the market. Buying a basic kit and upgrading it will cost more than the DRB.

That should be considered from the beginning.

So enjoy some more pics of the chassis with Top Line Jupiter DRS-10 Wheels. +9F and +12R

HPI Wheel Stays

2012-01-02T07:18:00.000-08:00

If you are like me then you have a million wheels that need sorting.

Nothing worse than a bag full of these searching for matching front and rear pairs.

These little items make things easy.

Just slide them on, and push down the last one.

And turn the end to retain. Cheap and easy.

BTW these are Top Line Jupiter DRS-10 Wheels

Swirl O-Rings

2012-01-02T07:03:00.000-08:00

This is a great product that I've been using a LOT!

It lets you swap tyres from rim to rim. For carpet this is especially great, because you really only need one or two sets of tyres. They never wear out.

This literally takes only a few seconds to swap rims. The fit is tight so there's no slippage.

They work well on wheels with a large flat section. Wheels with two raised bars are quite difficult. The method is very simple though.

Slip the o-ring over the wheel near the outside. It's best to put a twist in it.

Sit the rim on top,

The push down. Finished.

One minute for a whole set.

Benri Desu Yo! That means EASY!

By the way, wheels featured here are these... 4 Spoke wheels from Street Jam.

RE-DRB 1.8 CS SSG HT OD Preview

2012-01-02T04:20:00.000-08:00

Progress is underway on the RE-DRB 1.8 CS SSG HT OD.

I'm about 75% through the build with the remaining shock assembly parts waiting for rebound specs. I'll have a step by step on the site soon.

First impressions are contrasting so lets have a look at the chassis so far.

Good points are that Yokomo have included all their top spec parts in the box so it oozes quality. Fit and finish is near perfect. The alloy blue is very well finished. Turnbuckles and new design ball ends have almost no play. Small details like the clamp wheel hubs and shock ball points are nice inclusions.Wheelbase spacers and other small anodized items like wheel lock nuts are also included.

Pre-assembled top spec drive shafts front and rear are also a nice touch. Front one-way and full ball race bearings eliminate play from all areas and the steering is flawless.

I'm using Overdose front hubs which are awesome and easy to assemble.

SSG chassis is very well cut and includes space for a big spur, but it doesn't "shine" as much as I'd like.

CS upgrade parts are very nicely made and the rear makes the front plastic spur look a bit average.

Now the drive system. While very smooth, I can't help thinking it's overly complicated.

Basically the same design is used front and rear to adjust tension and this is done at the hub in an oval shape bearing holder. While this is okay in principle, the inclusion of a tiny ball and spring is a bit too fiddly. The route of the rear belt requires two pulleys (one geared) and a bearing runner and another tensioner especially for the rear. It's similar to a 3 belt design with two belts.

So as the chassis comes together, its getting heavy. All the alloy is weighing it down.

BUT, that just means more power. Steering response should be fast. The position of the spur is perfect. Test fit for all my bodies is fine. I can't wait to get my gear in it and it looks amazing.

I'll be doing weight comparison with Drift Package, RE-R, CE-RX and RE-R and looking at the details soon.

RE-Amemiya Initial D "Takumi 7" - Part 5

2012-01-01T05:00:00.000-08:00

Touge Time Attack Battle. Is this the ultimate for Takumi and Project D.

Refreshing this old body hasn't been easy. But I think the result has maximum impact. Lights are connected and ready to go.

The body is just sitting on my display chassis. You can see the side skirts quite well here. They are actually from a HPI Mazdaspeed Body left over from a D-Stage conversion.

The difficulties in bending lexan to create complex shapes is tough. So I chose this sharp diffuser option. It's basically reinforced with electrical tape that just happens to match the body color.

It's bolted onto the existing body in 10 places.

Can't wait to get this out for some driftage...

RE-RX @ Max One Video

2011-12-30T07:43:00.000-08:00

Here's a rather long video from the other day. I'm using my D-Like RE-R(X) with Celica Supra XX and Custom Yokomo RX-7.

The other cars are a Kazama GP-X under the Chaser and a Kei car set up for drift.

RE-RX @ MAX ONE

2011-12-29T07:06:00.000-08:00

I didn't have enough time last night to enjoy the RE-RX's new found abilities. So, today was about consolidation and confirmation.

I slapped on the Jupiter DRS-10's which really match the RX-73 Shakotan and headed out.

I took the hook, but I forgot the exhaust... Damn!

I slapped the LED back in also. It's unfortunate that splitters don't last long though.

The venue was pretty empty so Kuni-san and I played chase on a different tight course. I was really enjoying this new-found ability and the car was performing beautifully.

Later on I swapped to the XX and old school rims.

The knight rider in the house.

I also had a close look at the Overdose DRB chassis. It's a nice upgrade, but I can't justify this expense personally.

A de-anodised DRB looks cool. I also have some ideas up my sleeve.

And you always find something awesome at MAX-ONE

Today was Kei-Car drift.

Stay tuned for a video... From me and one from MAX ONE.

D-Like RE-RX

2011-12-28T20:13:00.000-08:00

What you see here is the missing link.

I've dubbed the RE-R an RE-RX now because it's so far from the standard componentry.

CE-RX steering system is now in place. It's been strengthened with putty for durability. The original is a bit weak.

About the only issue I had was the motor wiring. But It moved out of the way without drama.

I'll be replacing the bushings with bearings in the future and I have a set of Team Bomer turnbuckles to complete the car.

I will develop a package from this. It won't be cheap, but it will be the best.

Russ.

RWB G-Force #9 - Progress Update

2011-12-28T19:51:00.000-08:00

Time to start getting excited. Almost ready for final paint.

Side steps are a good addition.

A few gaps to fill. but basically the shell is done. Paint and finish to come.

Maximum One

2011-12-28T06:22:00.001-08:00

Today I headed to Max One Tokyo as usual and I thought I had myself dialled in. My driving was fine by myself, but I couldn't get close to anyone else on the track. It wasn't fun. They would simply close in and pass.

There was something fundamentally wrong.With the low grip tyres I couldn't get control
So I changed to the Active tyres, and with high grip tyres it was better and felt good again, but there must be something wrong...

So I asked the "Pro" guys to drive my car and they recommended steering response was slow? How can that be? I have a Brushless Sanwa Hi Spec SSR Servo and it's basically the best on the market.

Well it turns out there is even more wrong with the standard RE-R than I though. The steering mechanism has now been completely thrown away... It's junk! To get these 1.8 CS chassis under real control you need super fast steering.

With great advice from the community. I now have something really special so maybe the RE-R will remain for the time being. I also have something to compare. I know what good feels like.

I installed a used steering system from a RC-ART white wolf and although it has wierd geometry, I now have much more steering. I've even had to trim the front sponge bumper away.

This change is amazing. After resetting, the extra steering angle makes the car so much fun to drive! I won't say easy, because there is still a lot of skill and concentration required, but now its really on another level. I don't feel like anything is wrong. Its almost perfect and I played for about an hour with the guys in tripple drift.

I was trying my best with my skill before, but now I feel the gap is only 5% not 15% I have confidence againI don't have to do anything but have fun now.

I'll take some pics of the steering tomorrow. But for now I've removed the RE-R from sale. It's really that good. The only issue is, do I want to start the DRB?

Amazing.

RE-Amemiya Initial D "Takumi 7" - Part 4B

2011-12-25T18:32:00.000-08:00

A little more on the Takumi FD

I found an hour to build a splitter. It's not perfect because the scraps I had were not wide enough.
But Hey, it's still cool. This is rough, but from 1 meter away it looks awesome.

I've almost mounted the side steps also. Just need some more tiny screws.

Maybe by the time I finish my DRB This will be ready too.

Max One Run

2011-12-21T02:25:00.000-08:00

Max One Today because I wanted to try some things.

1. I confirmed my chassis is FUN FUN FUN.
2. I confirmed tyres make a lot of difference.
3. I confirmed my driving is B level.
4. I saw some intersting stuff.
5. I confirmed that you don't need bling to be good.

It's Xmas time at max one. Santa Clause and Mini Xmas trees. The RE-R is awesome now.

I managed to squeeze this FD onto my RE-R with about 0.5mm clearance on the spur. This is the RE-R Chassis. White wheels with Moon-R tyres.

Good but... this is actually a drift package.

Secret Project.

The Active Hobby tyres simply grip! Maybe too much as speeds are fast! But braking, Control and simply all round better.

Anyway these two guys were awesome drivers and the chassis they were running makes you wonder about carbon belt drive, alloy cost.

Practice makes perfect. These guys have great skills.

And they thrash you with these things. A drift package with simple mods and a plastic OTA-R31. Esc and motor are good quality. Constant line and angle is their weapon.

This starlet was pretty wild with typical shakotan bent number

But what's this?

Drift Truck? it was fast... why?

Isn't that an M chassis with a dead set of wheels?

No It's a heavy, 3x540 engine M chassis. But it works... Amazing.

Kazama D-Link Moriya

2011-12-20T07:12:00.000-08:00

Hi Ho. I went up to Kazama Moriya today to do some testing. The RE-R is working very, very well now.

I just need to improve my driving. I'm just a tad behind the consistent Japanese guys. Part of that is practice and familiarity with the circuit and the other part is setup. My mission today was to carpet tyre test.

The first thing about Kazama's HUGE carpet track is the power you need.

At Max One, I have too much, but here at D-Link II, I need more top end, but that aside, I am learning about the high speed lines here. It takes me a little while to learn a track but I'm getting better and luckily now I have a consistent chassis to work from.

So on to the tyre test.

Top Line [Moon-R] Carpet Tyres
Vs
Active Hobby Carpet Tyres. <--- recommended

What can I say. I run 10 degree camber up front and 6 degree camber on the rear and the Active Hobby Tyres have SOOOO much more traction on the Kazama track. Acceleration and precision is much better. They have a good contact patch on any angle and under suspension compression or extension.

But mounting wise, they are not so good. The outer edge is very thin for "Style" so they don't bite much on the rim. They need to be shaved for fitment. I'm using rubber O-rings for mounting and the inner edge of the wheel needs to be shaved a little more to get them stable. I had one front leaving the rim and the others were well seated until a crash. So they need a bit more setup.

They are also a bit larger so that's the effect on acceleration also. Many carpet tyres have a lower profile for weight saving but the larger profile worked a lot better with my setup.

Moon R are consistent, but they don't have near the traction of the Active type. Less camber and they should improve... Contact patch is key.

DRB Arrival

2011-12-16T05:17:00.000-08:00

DRB 買った！

So I did a lot of thinking about the DRB. It really was the only solution to my body mounting desires.

I looked at the new OTA-R and CER White Wolf and others and they all had the same issues as my RE-R.
I've tried them all. and depending on setup, they are all as good as each other. Once you get to this premium level, the setup is probably more important than the chassis choice. That's where performance comes above the basic starting point chassis, but the main reason is the high spur gear preventing low mounting positions on all. I want to run my awesome HPI RX7s without hacking them to pieces so that meant a shaft drive or the DRB.

The DRB now comes with a lot of extra stuff that others still need modifying like blue aluminium chassis and shock parts, titanium turnbuckles, full bearings, crazy steering angle, etc

The first new item being an included one way front universal and a new current campaign includes a CS ratio of your choice. I have chosen CS 1.8 as a starting point and this should arrive in the next few days being sent directly from Yokomo. The next is the new hi traction chassis that can accommodate a good size spur gear in a cut out, negating the need for the Overdose style chassis.

Yokomo has already addressed a lot of issues with the version 2 hyper drive version and SSG version was visually good, but the latest version includes a few items that sway it into the affordable zone in competition with others.

But one thing that was recommended were the Overdose 8deg castor set with bearings. These have bearings that prevent binding at high angle and most top DRB users run these.

So I'll wait to build it after the Xmas break. Until then I plan to enjoy the RE-R. Next stop Kazama D-Link next Tuesday. After that it will be stripped to a rolling chassis for sale. 38000 yen if you are interested.

Russ.

RE-Amemiya Initial D "Takumi 7" - Part 4A

2011-12-14T18:05:00.000-08:00

I haven't done much more, just the odd sticker, but I layed out the parts on my display chassis for a look.

Hmmm Decisions Decisions. I should be able to make this HPI splitter work, but it wont be so strong... maybe the custom one is a better solution.

How much extra work do I want to put into this... haha. Currently the Line is about right,, but more aggressive is not bad...

RE-Amemiya Initial D "Takumi 7" - Part 4

2011-12-14T06:23:00.001-08:00

Rough as guts, but tough as nails!! and... it's no where near complete.

I've got a big splitter to go on and I'll be adding these skirts to the side. Sticker courtesy of Dino-chan.

The only thing about this now is, Wheels, basically the white black and silver mean that any wheel looks good. I've tried all my rims and they all look awesome!

Advan RS-D... maybe...

You can see the basic layout for the sleepy eyes, they are just taped in at the moment, I have to paint the light details and set up the LEDs.

Canards I have already and splitter making are next on the agenda.I have a HPI one but I think a custom one is deserved.

Stay tuned.

RE-Amemiya Initial D "Takumi 7" - Part 3

2011-12-12T22:35:00.000-08:00

This is ROUGH! Advan RS-D will be good for this. Mounting is LOW!

Black Decals are ready

Yellow has been an adventure. Right at the end I dropped it on the fresh paint. so it's still very ugly! I gave up a long time ago trying to make this one perfect. It will be a maximum impact body from a distance.

Up close it's not pretty but most details will be covered by stickers or carbon.

RWB G-Force #9 - Progress Update

2011-12-12T19:30:00.000-08:00

Getting there... Slowly.

The curves are good even if the sides are a bit wobbly. The price you pay for pain.

A little bit of paint.

Miesters and Active "Rubber"

A bit wobbly, but we shall work it out with a lower "Cap"

Drift Package - Test

2011-12-12T19:27:00.000-08:00

Adjusted servo direction, set up the throttle position

Camber etc 10deg camber 7 castor rear 4 deg. behaves normally.

... on a side note, I set up a drift package for a friend, and I tried the Kazama rental drift package. They aren't so bad. You don't really need these pricey chassis for fun. You just need to learn how the chassis works.

If you are going to upgrade your drift package, spend your money in this order.
1. FCD 1.5~1.8 and quick steering arms like Team Suzuki and good dampers.
2. Brushless Motor and Speed Control with adjustable neutral braking, braking and power application, like Keyence.

This might be enough to satisfy and you'll find yourself on par with top guys if you learn to setup your chassis.

There are still guys in Japan at the top level running lightweight Drift Package chassis with good power and electrics.

A new chassis won't make you better. The ability to control human inputs like power, steering and braking will definitely help you improve. Chassis is sometimes the first purchase, but think twice.

I think that's the key. Find a consistent chassis and spend time on setup. It's a pain, but it's needed.

Have fun.

DRB decision time

2011-12-11T17:58:00.001-08:00

What do I need in a drift chassis?

I think I know. Variety.

I like the changeability of body as much as the driving. Kind of like playing a video driving game and spending a lot of time in the paint and panel shop to get the perfect look.

I think that's why I have 1 chassis ,10 bodies and 20 sets of rims.

So for me the only solution is a DRB as it's the only twin belt drive chassis low enough to run most of my body-shells. My beloved RX7's have been on the shelf for too long. I like the twin belt drive simplicity of the RE-R and it performs very well. But it's not compatible with my style choices.

So I have to make a choice. Everyone will tell you the DRB is not perfect. But the guys here in Japan have solutions for most of the issues and small enhancements for perfection.

Yokomo's second release Hyper Drive tensioners and newly included free front one way and free counter steer upgrades have made these an interesting option again.

But they are still pricey after adding a set of alloy 8degree caster knuckles.

I have been doing some research. Can I handle the cost? Second hand? or New?

Do I need to sell the RE-R. Maybe the answer is yes... Stay tuned.

Drift Package!

2011-12-08T06:06:00.001-08:00

Sometimes, things that are a bit dirty are good!

Especially when it's a Drift Package and Running Set with a few mods for under $100

Noise maker in the center for police noise?

to be replaced.

Original as new motor, and some other parts. good yokomo ESC. It's old but I've already cleaned it up and upgraded it to CS.

The type B already has Bearings and choice parts.

I added my old one way shaft.

A 1.5 CS shaft gear and installed my old RC Running gear. Ready to Rock! Well, it still needs fine tuning and setup, but you get the idea.

RWB G-Force #9 - Progress Update

2011-12-08T05:56:00.001-08:00

Now I was quite happy with this point, The BBS display rims are an awesome match!

It's more or less ready for paint. But comments from forums and friends have me attempting some side skirts so the lower section will be covered.

This one will be a bit more aggressive. It is RC after all. Reality need not apply here.

These rear fenders have a bit more going on than the last one.

But anyway, I have some polycarbonate on and it's complying to the shape I want. Just takes time now to complete and strengthen.

I might change the name from G-force to "Peggy Sue"

RE-Amemiya Initial D "Takumi 7" - Part 2

2011-12-08T05:49:00.001-08:00

Well here is the start of something... Advan RS-D for this body.

Undercoat didn't go well (freezing day and some strange reaction on the body, maybe it had polish on it or something.

Anyway, that aside, I set about shaping the sleepy eye covers into the light buckets and repaired the front bumper that was completely broken before.

I've also cut the black designs already but I need to get some white before I can finish the rest.

RE-Amemiya FD3s Initial D Tribute "Takumi 7"

2011-12-06T06:17:00.001-08:00

Every one knows Takumi from Inital D manga and anime. Well the "Project D" FD never really got past the road car stage and with the manga promising a full on race car styling then I though I'd go RE-Amemiya Initial D style tribute.

I actually didn't but this body on purpose, It's a long story, but it ended up in my possession. It's rough as guts and was once a police car, I actually HATE the shape of the front of this RE-Amemiya STYLED fd3s because is so wrong that it's very unscale.

So I've decided to go to work on it. I removed the headlights and the buckets will be cut to accomodate sleepy lights with LEDs under the covers.

I'm also making a massive splitter and canard set for the front in full time attack style and side diffusers. It will be painted on the top in Mustard Yellow with flat finish and the I'll use matte black and white carbon or chrome on top of that.

Wheels will probably be T&E Black Advan RG-D +6 as these white top line +9 versions are a tad big.

Enjoy RC Drifting!

2011-12-06T04:58:00.001-08:00

Ok, Well this post is about satisfaction. I have my RE-R chassis to a point where it's a lot of fun. 2~3 hours of driving today was fun. This Celica Supra XX has has about 7 hours of running at this unforgiving circuit and only a few scars.

The steering arms, were the final step in making this capable and complete. The remaining possible tuning is purely cosmetic. Titanium screws and turnbuckles, alloy suspension arms and castor carriers will not be added. For me, this is enough for my D-like RE-R Drift package conversion.

I bought some Top Line "Mars" N-Model Wheels in +9 offset today and some nicely curved top line "Moon R" carpet tyres. They really look good and work well.

I didn't take the RWB FDPorsche today, which was a shame because this green one was doing some nice laps.

A few guys out to play is always good. The white wheels really help visibility. I can really see what angle they are at all times. This is actually quite useful and necessary at a dark circuit like this.

I managed to find some quiet time for a few shots on the expressway section.

I must get a driver for my bodies, it always looks a little fake without.

But I imagined being on an overpass taking these pics. Three levels down.

Or maybe a helicopter in chase.

I leave you with the Knight Rider flashing LED. It's too cool! But driving is more fun.

ps, sorry for the crap iphone shots.

Knight Rider

2011-12-04T18:35:00.001-08:00

I've been looking at this for a while. It actually a 1/24 scale item, but it works well.

From Hasegawa this item is for the Knight rider trans am, static display.

The switch I will eliminate at a later date.

But for now it's cool! Play the papadom theme.

A little more cool max one goodness

D-Like RE-R - Under the hood! Part #6

2011-12-04T18:34:00.001-08:00

Something I've been putting off for a while. No time.

With limited space and proper tools I got the Kawada BL mounts in. It really opens up the chassis.

D-Like RE-R - Under the hood! Part #5

2011-11-30T18:37:00.001-08:00

I have new knuckles. Well old ones actually. One man's trash is another man's treasure. Arigatou!

Too much?

Enough. Can't wait to enjoy this! Everything is coming together.

Here is the screen for the telemetry, You can get real time data or a logged session.

Max One - Super Slow Mo.

2011-11-30T06:28:00.001-08:00

I was lucky enough to help out in testing the super slow motion camera at Tokyo Max One.

The Surging XX Supra looks awesome.Thanks a lot for the imagery!

D-Like RE-R Setting @ Max One

2011-11-30T04:40:00.001-08:00

This is the path from frustration to fun! Learning to drive @ 1.7 Counter Steer and new settings and a new wheel radio all at the same time. Yes it took some getting used to, but It was worth it.

I checked the setting with the F.Dorsche and then once it was dialed in I switched to debut the Surging 200mm Celica Supra XX... It is AWESOME!

I swapped the springs to give more rear grip on this track, super soft in the rear for here. It seemed to find a sweet spot for me. There's a little more adjustment in it. maybe some more neutral brake I can dial in, but for now I've got a consistent package I can really attack with.

This shot is AWESOME! It really shows the colors as intended.

I was getting a lot more angle right from the start with the 1.67 and over rotation was an issue, so I dialed in 10 degrees camber up front and a bit more rear grip with the super softs springs and it helped a lot.

The radio is awesome too. Smooth and direct. I can feel a small difference, but not so much. The telemetry is cool I guess, but a bit of a gimmick. I got up to 7500 RPM on the spur. The telemetry logger graph is interesting. On a big circuit you could use it to check gear ratios etc.

But it's good to show people your blip blip throttle input.

Anyway, I put in about 2 hours on track and by the end I was getting into some great tandem action. I have really found the point where I can play with the big guns. I'm not so nervous than I'm going to slow people up. I'm trying to get side by side, run inside and keep a good line.

So what does it take. Patience, Help and Practice (and a little money).

Near the end of the session I put these new TE37 on for a change. The size really suits these older cars but I still love the Panasports on this car, the color is great.

So I am more than happy now. I'm ready to rock hard for a long time. Just a few more small things to go.

D-Like RE-R - Under the hood! Part #4

2011-11-30T04:30:00.001-08:00

Today's job was to setup the sensors and get everything tested.

Thermometer sensor is simply taped to the motor.

RPM sensor is a light sensitive device. luckily I found a mounting solution. An old servo crank worked very well and adjust position easily!!! YAY RUSS!!!

So it's all installed. I need a soldering Iron to get everything shortened and sorted, but for now it's functional.

Unfortunately my Futaba Switch is incompatible so the lights are half off at the moment. It's a mess under there. I'll need a driver to hide everything.

D-Like RE-R - Under the hood! Part #3

2011-11-29T06:28:00.001-08:00

Well... Today was early Xmas for me... I went to many shops in Akihabara to get a new controller and I found a 50% off this monster Sanwa MT-4 with receiver and telemetry sensors!

If you haven't heard about this new TOP LEVEL radio then go here. You will be amazed at the spec and functions.

I ended up paying little over $200 and that afforded me the latest SRG-BL Brushless SSR Super Response High Torque Servo all for under $300

So now there are no excuses. I should be able to dial in the chassis and motor perfectly with the gear I have.

What brand is it Santa?

I'm unsure of the usefulness of the telemetry system yet, but I'm sure I can work out something.

Included are 1 temp and 1 rpm sensor.

Maybe someone could hook it up to measure angle rather that RPM... Interesting?

I'm stoked that I can get all this for the price... I had almost decided to get the MX11 but it's heavy and awkward.

Time shall tell. the manual is 50 pages.

Soon the install.

D-Like RE-R - Under the hood! Part #2

2011-11-29T06:05:00.001-08:00

Next step in the upgrade process was springs. I already had the Yokomo aluminium set so I needed some better spring rates.

I went for this combo for now. Long springs 29mm for better travel and they required some 2mm lower seats. More blue alloy is good!

Front are HSS Long Shock Spring "Black" --> Super Soft

Front are HSS Long Shock Spring "Yellow" --> Soft

More to come in Part 3.

D-Like RE-R - Under the hood! Part #1

2011-11-29T05:54:00.001-08:00

Lets check the latest upgrades to my D-Like RE-R... under the hood. Part 1.

I feel I've been on a big learning curve with this D-Like RE-R chassis. Instead of the pinion spur / crown pinion sets, the belt ratings and CS% is hard to work out. And more so, finding a sweet spot that is more FR than 4WD is difficult.

Previously I had upgraded from the stock 40/14 14/40 50:50 setup to the 40/14 20/36. This was done to keep the stock belt set and as suck resulted in CS around 1.5 with the Yokomo one way front axle.

That setup was fine, but it was still a bit 4wd in nature (especially mid corner) and the stupid plastic rear gear had derailed a couple of times, so I decided to go close to what others are running and settle for the 14/40 20/32. The D-like rear pulley is a nice piece of kit, but is quite pricey.

But it had o be done.

I'm quite happy with the result so far. Here is the ARD rear axle and the Pulley before install.

the adjuster is underneath for battery clearance.

These 20T are quite popular so finding a matching set is proving a waiting game.

Next step Shocks.

280 ZX Livery

2011-11-27T06:48:00.001-08:00

Designed the livery for the 280 ZX today. I can't wait to get this on track. I think it will beat the supra into action.

Kazama D-Link II

2011-11-26T07:57:00.001-08:00

Took my beast up to Kazama's new indoor track. Wow! the large space makes everything more difficult.

Dino brought the Speed Hunter for some action. It looks awesome and stood up well to the punishment. we just have to get it on a decent chassis next... OTA ZEON!???

Sliding around, the Porsche is strange, but cool once you get used to it.

It's fat but makes quite the impression.

The track doesn't have elevation anymore, but the big flat area showed my insufficient setup on my car.

I really haven't spent the time yet. So luckily some very kind locals helped me with toe angle / ride height and other stuff. It really makes a difference. some new springs coming. Super soft front, medium rear.

BUT, the big issue was my Propo. It was out of range and getting interference. It's an entry spec unit, but didn't expect that. Kazama told me Yokomo 2.4 ghz systems had lots of claims. So guess what. It's getting the turf.

next week. Maybe Santa / Sanwa will come early.

I leaned a lot tonight so it was a great experience. These guys are so awesome. Above is an Overdose chassis DRB with every conceivable modification. heavy but getting my attention. Thanks for the help!

I'll end with a bit of shakotan dori.

RWB - G-Force 9 Update

2011-11-25T06:26:00.001-08:00

Well, this project is still in progress. I did the final sanding on the fenders and it would be ready for paint...

However all those people I "listen to" want side skirts on this one.... GRRRR

So I left the bottom section rough in readiness for the side skirt. I did a test bend of some Lexan and it should work, relying one curve of the material to find the right natural curve.

That should take another week or so...

then paint. I have all the detail trim pieces done, so after that it should "bolt together" quickly.

Street Jam 37SL +10

2011-11-25T06:18:00.001-08:00

Street Jam have just released these 37SL in +10 offset. Why buy these. Because they are coooL!

they are about 17" instead of the huge sizes available. they look great on AE86 which require that smaller wheel look and also on smaller scale bodies.

They have some great detail also.

I mounted them up ready for a trip to Kazama D-Link tomorrow.

280 ZX Shakotan Livery

2011-11-25T06:11:00.001-08:00

I've been thinking for a while about a livery for the 280ZX. I almost gave up and went for a single colour, But. I think I have a solution.

I love the Japanese fighter image with the red Japanese sun. (Yes, the sun IS red in Japan) and I wanted a race style + the Shakotan image is unavoidable. So I sat down today and sketched something with a biro.

The only bit I'm unsure of is the head light area. Red or Black? Maybe I'll go black. Red maybe a bit much.

RWB Speed Hunter #34

2011-11-18T04:02:00.001-08:00

Time to release the final shots before I handed over the body that's now in it's new home.

The diffuser is not for the destination. Just something I had on the chassis at the time.

The finished machine looks AWESOME! Speed Hunter Dino is a GT-R34 lover also so I worked that into his build. I didn't give him much choice in his final product. Maybe One day it might receive a coat of flat clear and side skirts, but for now, it's complete.

RC Bodies are a little chassis specific. So the final tuning was needed on the destination chassis.

I don't feel the extra length is too noticeable. Especially at speed. I need another 3 mm for the rear tyres. but no-one makes bigger spacers. But when the body is mounted LOW. It looks awesome!!!

Dino's awesome SpeedHunters.com shots from MAX ONE, with my build summary is here.

Enjoy the creation. A challenge, but a pleasure to see the RWB style smile. Wide...

RE-Xtreme RC Speed-Hunter-ed

2011-11-17T05:42:00.001-08:00

You may remember this post...

Well Dino has features our first adventure in Max One on Speed Hunters. Check it out!

MAX ONE Video

2011-11-16T05:45:00.001-08:00

Video Link

Max One Setting.

2011-11-15T06:48:00.001-08:00

I took the RX-7s back down to Max One in Tokyo to try and get some settings sorted and of course try to step up my driving.

I tried my Tamiya SGT - D Rx7 and the RWB Porsche FD3s Rx7

You wouldn't think a body would have much difference but there are differences in the way they behave. The SGT body has some real downforce!! I guess copying a real race car has it's benefits, because compared to the RX-Porsche with an easier slide factor and lesser control is apparent. Speeds at Max One are not so great but in the faster sweepers, the body seems more stable.

I did all my settings with the Keyence TAO and discovered a new level of drive-ability. I now have gradual power application and a brake setting that works. The car slows with around 30% neutral brake and the brake itself packs a punch with 40% slamming the rear into over steer. I'll probably knock this back a little more but for today it was good to feel the differences the motor and ESC can provide.

It was an interesting comparison. In any case, I didn't destroy anything today so I guess I am improving.
One thing is for sure though. LED's certainly help at Max One. The layout is dark so unless you have some lighting happening, the car is easy to get lost sometimes.

But I do like the place. Stay tuned for some video.

http://weld-jp.com/overdose/max-one-top.html

http://ameblo.jp/max-one-tokyo/

RE-Xtreme Super GT-D FD3s Rx7

2011-11-13T18:19:00.001-08:00

I used up some old stickers and mounted this body that I hadn't used in ages.

But there is one major issue with the Tamiya Super GT Body.

Have another look and you will see this issue.

Here it is.... This freaking Spur gear. This is the problem I have with almost all my RX7 bodies.

Luckily the colour doesn't make it stand out too much.

In true D1 style the sticker application is good from far but far from good. Serious poke at +9 offset. Maybe I should put the +6 advan RS on here.

But most D1 cars have massive poke these days.

So I'll leave it like this. Super GT D1 Rx7 Style. the body is on the lowest post holes I can get it, Without adjusting my suspension setting, this is as low as it will go, but luckily it still looks OK. Once you get some angle on, it's cool!

Keyence TAO

2011-11-13T06:30:00.001-08:00

Today I picked up a controller for my Keyence Tachyon ESC and Luxon KG motor setup.

I can gain access to more settings that the stupid button combinations on the ESC itself.

It just makes sense and its easy to use. Just connect the RX cable.

I got the SR (shine Red) because it should be easy to find in my RC box. Also came with a reflective strap.

Manual is here.

I'm going to be putting together an option set for purchase so stay tuned. The best from Japan!

Hachi - Repair

2011-11-08T19:17:00.000-08:00

Time to repair the AE86. I forgot to re-enforce the front of this body, so it took a beating. But thats cool. adds to the authenticity. sometimes painting on the outside is much better.

I tried the RWB interior and wheels on this morning also. It gives me an idea how this is going to look. I'm pretty happy so I'll go ahead and keep this colour.

However the main reason for this post is... The damage sustained last night needed to be addressed.

So I did dome bumper stitching. These are just the plastic bag ties with some excess removed. But the result is good.

The other side is wired together without the plastic coating. I'm liking this!!! A LOT.

Hachi - Max One - Evasion

2011-11-08T07:49:00.000-08:00

A dark night. The cool temperature requires a quick ECU check.

New tyres fitted and checked.

Head out on the street .

Check the course.

Initiate and it's slide time... hitting the apex...

linking the curves...

enjoying each moment.

Find a place for a break. Park up.

And enjoy the scene.

But there's always something to spoil the party.

Tokyo Max One.

RE-Xtreme RC Division

Hachi - Max One - Introduction

2011-11-08T07:23:00.000-08:00

I thought I'd start off this post with some coolness!

Max -one Tokyo is an awesome venue, but it is a bit hard on beginners, It took me a while to get the hang of it here. the small carpet layout is quite unforgiving, but my friend Allen was soon hooking up sections of the track.

My RE-R Drift Package Conversion received an "ECU TUNE" with the Keyence TAO interface. We tried a White Wolf with 10.5T and it was so easy to control. Sometimes having too much power is an issue.

My repainted AE86, was soon wearing some COOL battle scars. I'll need to stitch the front bumper in a couple of places. But that's even cooler.

When not driving, he took some shots of me on the line. My Canon X50 is only an entry level SLR, but it gets there in the end. Low light in Max one is difficult.

Here's a nice sequence... out line.

ON LINE!...

Flashing by...

Here's a great shot of me almost hitting the barrier.

They have a cool camera setup, that puts you on the big screen too. Makes you famous.

Here's two of my shots of Allen in action.

Hope you enjoyed... Part two I'll post my static shots.

Hachi Re-Hash

2011-11-08T00:34:00.000-08:00

You may remember my AE86. This was the original body I got with my Drift Package. Time for a refresh.

OMG! When I removed the stickers, I remembered this was terrible.

Not to worry... Some grey and flat clear later... (RWB on the side.)

Voila! Tomei/OS-Giken/Runfree/TRD sponsored AE86. Stance is not set in this pic.

Ive since added some mirrors and other small things.

From the back I'm liking it,

But the front needs a few more stickers.

Overall, good enough as a basher to destroy at will. I think the gold wheels don't match either, so I'll take some more soon with stock rims or Black miesters.

The ZX Files - Episode 1

2011-11-08T00:21:00.000-08:00

Ok, I started the ZX from ABC Hobby. Ive got some Speed Way Pal Semi-Works fenders and an old spoiler from a RX3.

There are soo many bumper parts in this kit, It almost makes me want to stop and just go bumperless. Which I may do anyway. I'm still yet to trim the original body, but the look is there.

I have no idea what colour to paint this. I keep debating Shakotan style or a single colour. I bought Camel Yellow. But I think it will be Orange like the 260 432. Wait and see.

Surging Double X

2011-11-06T18:13:00.000-08:00

This is my latest RC Shell. It's a Surging brand Celica XX SA60. The JDM version of the MA61 Celica Supra.
Body is 200mm wide so it can accommodate these Speed Way Pal Panasport G7 +10 Offset with ease.

I used 6 colours on this one. Anodised Aluminium, Anodised Blue, Anodised Pink, Metallic Purple ( flip ) Gun Metal and Black.

I cut all the masks on my plotter and while the design is how I envisaged, the colours are not an exact match for what I had in mind.

I debated for a while about the purple flip paint. I probably made the wrong choice over standard purple, but it still has a mystery to it.

In most light it looks more grey than green but when it pops in purple it looks great.

The design is based on a lot of shakotan style cars from this era. '82/3 and the rear lights were styled in a similar fashion.

The body had a shortness to it as the scale was not correct, however this little drag wing gives a length that it needs. It really makes a difference.

This 80s period had a lot of people running on deep steel rims, they look almost as good as the G7 wheels...

... but definitely more period correct.

Looks great! I forgot to screw on the huge exhaust for the shoot. haha.

The Panasport G7 are way too big for a car of this period, but the effect is very special and updated. The titanium is a great match for this car. Very happy.

Here's a few shots in a darker position. Front details were from an old Levin I had. Luckily it donated some toyota emblems and TRD stickers.

There are a lot of small imperfections, but it was a quick paint job.

The effect is still very cool!

Light plays tricks on this shell.

As you can see.

Dos Equis Oscura

2011-11-04T06:09:00.000-07:00

Dark shots, for a slow reveal...

This car needs light... and contrast.

Some stock looking rims for practice... rollout from the factory.

Panasport G7 at the ready for the track. Shakotan machine is ready for action... almost.

Added some mirrors and a low rear drag style wing. the rear lights are shakotan / kaido style.

Just need to fit the exhaust and head outside for Dos Equis Clara.

Strike 2.

2011-11-02T07:13:00.000-07:00

Well, it's almost done... just have to reem the rear holes and decide which mirrors to run... Wrong wheels of course.

Max-One Setting.

2011-11-02T04:53:00.000-07:00

I headed down to Max-One Tokyo for the after-noon to do some practice. I'm still getting the hang of this setup, so the FD-RWB-Porsche-RX7 whatever took some more beating. the splitter is just about gone now. HAHA.

But I must say, this happened in the first 20 minutes as I reacquainted myself with the track. After that is was fun fun fun.

Some of the local guys inspected my car as the spur gear ( which was 1/2 destroyed on another FD I have from mounting it too low ) was making a groan from poor mesh. So they helped me out with a new one and suggested another size better suited to my car. It now gives a lot more punch and a lot more control.

I'm getting the hang of the RE-R and the track, but I've got a long way to go before I get the ten person drift chain happening without error. On a fresh battery, it's too twitchy I have to be careful, but after 5 minutes, I get into a zone where it's very easy to control for a long period, then it drops off.

Pretty happy.

Two Strikes - First Pics,.

2011-11-01T22:11:00.000-07:00

Well it's still awesome... in unfinished rough state.

The colours although not as I invisaged were not looking too bad.

This is the look I wanted.

But tight deadlines mean... runs in paint (hard to apply transparent flake paints) and minor uneven lines

But I think it works...

once some stickers go on... and a bit more trimming... it will be ready for action.

Two Strikes - Supra Update

2011-11-01T22:04:00.000-07:00

Things didn't start well. The silver went on like a DOG! RUFF!

Everything has to backed in black... so it takes forever and I got a bit impatient.

The lines aren't so great... but.. no drama.

Here's the biggest miss. My purple... has a green Flip colour!!! GRRR! When it's purple it looks great but green and pink... ??? no...

So after that I kind of gave up and just got it finished.

What went wrong? everything! XX Celica with more than three Strikes...

Dos Equis (XX)

2011-11-01T05:05:00.000-07:00

Cutting out the Dos Equis - that's XX in Spanish. Anyway... the Miesters look great but.

These are the Wheels for this one. G7 Panasport. That freaking massive spur gear already has me wanting another chassis!!! Having to cut bodies like this so high is a sin. I like LOW! I've already damaged it on the FD and that's a high cut body also. This RE-R might get ditched pretty soon, ONLY for that reason. My OWN chassis will come soon too anyway. These wheels are 10.5 offset for this body at about 200mm. But it needs to be lower.

PS paint doesn't work on these carpet tyres very well at all. But the effect is cool!

Be careful with these... so easy to go too big.

I now have two sets ready for some carpet attack! I thought these wouldn't suit this body, but not too bad, so they may get a run on Kingyo's Affair.

RWB - G-Force Build Update

2011-11-01T04:26:00.000-07:00

Another set of Black Work Meisters in +9 offset.

Nice little shine on these.

Tyres are done + another Idlers set for my carpet tyres.

ready for mounting.

Fixed up the front a little.

Added some Gel FRP instead of putty on this one. Interesting stuff.

Ready for some paint and panel tomorrow.

S130 Inspiration

2011-10-26T07:44:00.000-07:00

I have a few ideas now for the S130 build. After seeing this source pic. I'm happy I chose the Deep Dish steel wheels. While My fenders will be slightly bigger, I'll be going for the carbon / black and body colour combo.

I recently have a thing for sand colour cars like this 1/24 supra I made but I'd like to get more of a mustard look going.

The front bonnet and air dam, I'm undecided on at the moment, but If I do go that way, I like the idea of the small thin line on the raised section like the US 280ZX. Kind of a 20th anniversary tribute in Mustard not Gold. I'll also make a Whale tail type ZX Turbo Spoiler.

Then there's always the tough Grey. Hmmm. No shakotan candy paint here. Just low and tough.

XX Mask Cutting

2011-10-25T02:29:00.000-07:00

Managed to cut the masks for the XX celica today.

Forgot they go on the inside, so I'll just reverse the slash sides.

no drama

All good.

Real Drift RE-R Settings

2011-10-25T02:27:00.000-07:00

D-Like Real Drift Settings for my reference.

1.8 CS / FCD

F 15T + 38T
222 belt for the front.

R 20T + 32T Belt
471 belt for the rear.

1.5 CS / FCD

F 14T + 40T
Stock belt for the front.

R 20T + 36T Belt
Stock belt for the rear.

SA61 Supra XX

2011-10-23T09:14:00.000-07:00

Scheme is done for the Shakotan XX.

Silver and Gun Metal base with Blue pink and Purple. Panasport G7

Surging XX MA60 Celica Supra

2011-10-22T07:09:00.000-07:00

This is something I just want. Shakotan style Celica Supra. I've been looking at it for ages and today I just gave in. It will take a while to complete as I have a lot on.

However a full shakotan style livery will be implemented.

A quick test as usual reveals a very wide fitment is possible so it's gonna be cool!

The surging gallery image is cool.

There are a couple of mods I can do for more width if needed and the front can become more realistic by inverting the lower portion of the front bar.

I'm pretty sure I can find some light bukets for this square front. And maybe cut one light for the raised look.

Something like this... SOARER or this SKYLINE

I've been researching for a while.

My Fair Lady

2011-10-22T06:25:00.000-07:00

I saw a photo from speed way pal featuring the ABC hobby Z and ....

Their new Semi Works over fenders and.

Their Panasport G7

I couldn't resist. (this has been changed to Black in PS) HOW ABOUT THIS

Body has almost everything you need. It's bumperless OTB so I can run it like that with some under bumper detail. Or with the big fat late 70's rubber bumpers.

Light boxes, but no lights. Coming soon.

I had to buy the fender mirrors. I guess thats OK, because not everyone needs them. But they are ON the box.

Anyway, here are a few colour designs. I DON't want a BRE style race car as that's been done.

I've chosen the gun metal G7 Panasport wheels now so it may have an effect on the colouring. I like the pale yellow although that would be hard to replicate.

Dark metallic blue or black and gun metal may be high on the choice list. Paint will be simple so it shouldn't take long for this one.

Check the choices and give me some comments.

Wheel Selection Imperfection

2011-10-22T06:03:00.000-07:00

Here's a little dilemma I have. I have a lot (upwards of 20 sets) of rims and tyres amassed over time.

These T&E Advan RS-D were purchased for this FD Porsche RWB body, But they weren't quite wide enough at +6mm. This Yokomo body is actually quite wide.

So they sit around unused, but still super cool!

So, I went and bought these AWESOME Racing Sparco NT style rims from Street Jam. The ONLY reason I'm not using them is that the centre hub area is too small for the wheel nuts. WTF!!! BE WARNED.

I'll have to machine them somehow.

So they too sit around unused, but still super super cool!

These will not be used on this body.

I recently bought some Panasport rims for another project and they look ok but somehow not quite right. Thank god because I don't need these on my list for this body. These rims are a bit too old school... if that gives you a clue...

So there you have three sets of rims that are unused and taking up space in my box.

Awesome Sparcos +8.5

Panasport G7 +10

and Advan RS-D +6

Maybe oneday they'll turn a tread.

Steelies

2011-10-21T06:36:00.000-07:00

I'm the first to admit... this looks freaking too cool! Centre lock 17" Miester S1 with a 90mm dish on a AE86 would be awesome. But sometimes, it's a bit unrealistic.

So how about this. 14" steelies by Street Jam. Albeit with a massive 100mm dish. It's more realistic but it has much less impact.

These wheels are designed to have a fake tyre sidewall so when they join to Spice or Street Jam tyres, they look stretched. pretty cool huh.

Now my problem is, I love the Miesters so much, will I ever run the steelies? Or any of my old rims for that matter.

That is yet to be answered.

likewise, the new color for this body... outside paint. RWB style.

Battle Damage

2011-10-21T06:23:00.000-07:00

So after the countless collisions with the scenery at Max One, "Kingyo's Affair" the front of the FD / 993 was looking a bit battle scarred.

The splitter on the other side has all but torn off. So I'll be putting another behind it and then shoo goo to the rescue. I also have some Kyosho fibreglass "light sensitive" reinforcement tape to try out, that might do the trick.

Anyway. I also invested in a set of my own carpet tyres. These are spice Reversible style. They have a very small footprint and have a 45 degree side or 60 degree side. The only drawback being ride height. they are actually quite thin. Maybe I'll Reverse them to have a thicker sidewall for Idlers paint.

Max One - Tokyo

2011-10-19T06:57:00.000-07:00

My friend and I headed down to Max One Tokyo Bay tonight to check out the new location. Awesome Fun!

I took my RWB FDorsche Kingyo's Affair. I updated the front with led in the vents and hooked up the headlights to the 3rd channel It looked awesome sliding around.

In my excitement, I always forget to take pics first and smash later, so the front splitter took the brunt of the action. I was learning the track, it was my first time with the RE-R chassis, first time on carpet and first time with Keyence brushless setup. But I was getting the hang of it. I am really happy with the setup. A lot better in a real setting with target lines to hit and guys to compare against.

Another few thousand laps and I'll be confident enough to drift in tandem with the other local guys who were very very good!

I was using the rented tyres but I'll be buying my own carpet tyres for this place.

The top section of the MAX one layout is unused. Unfortunately too narrow for any sliding, but great for shots.

I'll definitely be back.

Ps. Stay tuned for a few posts from the Drift Master Dino on Speed hunters. His drift hack chaser is wearing th RWB drift spec wheels. Background is another teaser.

RX-73 DRS-10

2011-10-18T01:35:00.000-07:00

I found these new rims the other day an I knew they would match this car. The straight chrome lines are a perfect match for these 10 spoke wheels.

I chose +9 front and +12 rear but I could have done +12 all round.

But I like the tuck at the front and on full lock there's no drift issues.

I've still got the work wheels set up for this too, but If I'm feeling flashy, I can Bring the Bling.

These wheels are from Top Line. Drift Fighter [Jupiter] DRS-10 W Chrome Front Offset 9 Rear Offset 12

Speaking of Bling , I installed the Yokomo active light kit back into this car, Bling Blip, Flash.

What a pain in the ass these are.

Wires everywhere. Lighting is never an elegant solution.

D-Like RE-R + FCD conversion conversion

2011-10-18T01:30:00.000-07:00

Oops Dirty....

Clean... This is an ARD CER rear Solid Axle. I probably didn't need this as I only really needed the pulley, but may as well keep things blue. There is a problem with this though. the belt guide on the rear gear is two piece. I don't know how to attach the guide. The belt hasn't fallen off... yet. next time I'll ask. If I have to glue it, that's just BAD design.

Anyway, the rear 36T is matched to a 20T centre.

This equates to around 1.48 bias to the rear and allows me to keep the normal belt, for the 20T, I got this Blade 20T gear. Silver sold out.

The full counter rear wheel drive bias is good.

Up front I am using the perfect Yokomo one way axle in blue too. Now this is a nice part.

So after that I did some testing with hard tyres and soft tyres. The countersteer is there but the grip isn't really at the moment. Maybe my surface. The slides are great and balanced. It's not as rough as my MR-4TC shaft setup and driving straight is easy now, but I'm still finding quick change of direction hard to catch. I know that's practice though.

On full charge the engine provides a bit too much traction loss, although at 1/2 charge I was really getting the feel for it. I'll be keeping it like this for the foreseeable future. I may invest in silver pulleys at some point, but its working very smoothly and I am happy.

I'll be doing some more practice soon. Maybe a video to come. I;m not sure what the 1.8 FCD would be like whether it may help with a bit more rear traction, but it seems pretty good for now.

RWB 993 - 99.9% Complete

2011-10-17T07:27:00.000-07:00

Here is a sneak peak at the RWB "Speed Hunter" #34 993 Porsche GT-2 Tuned by RE-Xtreme and .RSG.

Today I finished up the lip spoiler and mesh inserts for the front and rear intakes, I installed my new wheels for the FET Rx-7 to test. I'll be running that as my main body for a while. Front is +9 and rear is effectively +18. Both bodies are similar size.

I also did a little finishing to the project. The last Idlers stickers I made for the tyres were easily damaged, so I decided to make this template for the new ones.

RWB - 34 Progress

2011-10-12T06:04:00.000-07:00

Almost there...

Today was a productive day. Last sand and prep for paint.

The undercoat looked pretty good. I considered leaving it black.

But I proceeded to add colour to the base. Wing and mirrors, not yet fitted

I had already made the photo realistic decals for the rear.

And for the front. but figuring out how to finish them is a bit hard. It really needs small buckets behind the second layer of lights. I'll figure it out. (remember I'm building two of these)

I might position them a bit closer behind the lens too. I still need the rubber / black front deflector and the mesh behind. Those details are the easy ones.

Fenders are fat! Front is now 197 and rear is 220mm!!!!!! Remember most stock bodies are 190mm.

I've made a lower setting for the wing too. It can be higher or this high with a more aggressive angle.

The cutout in the engine cover is real. The rear has an engine in there and the driver inside features some really nice touches, but I wont feature it all until it is all done now. Maybe next week I'll go to Oi and get some pics with the new owner.

There's some small things I'd fix if I had another year, but I've spent about many many hours on this one so it's time up.

To do list. (for me)

~~Rear wing sticker~~
~~Rear wing vent paint~~
~~Mirrors install and chrome inserts~~
~~Interior steering boss then secure.~~
~~Front light buckets~~
~~Front air dam~~
~~Front mesh~~

RE-R Test

2011-10-11T20:52:00.000-07:00

Ok, so how does it go mate?!

Good points.

Keyence Motor and set. Great! Very smooth and operates over a wide power range meaning you can be subtle with the throttle. I haven't played with the settings yet, but at the moment it's good. Motor didn't really get hot during my short session racing small children on the sidewalk.

It's faster than a 5 year old boy! not off the line though. Drift tyres can't keep up with human traction. HAHA!

As expected the car operates like a normal Yokomo drift car. Kind of.
Balance is good and I can see this being very good at change of direction. Drifting to left or right operates the same rather than the one side good, one side bad Drift Package experience.

Bad points.

There is more time spent with the steering in the neutral position rather than on any kind of angle. Initiate and wait seems to be the order of the day. Braking does nothing to keep the slide going as the front wheels are connected to all drive wheels and apportioned 25% each. Like drifting a 4wd lancer EVO with a welded diff at both ends. just floor it, break traction then try to control it.

Loads of under-steer and no real drift style. In fact without the ball diff at either end, traction is probably worse than normal dori pake

But this is normal RC style. Lot's of on off throttle. It shouldn't be like this.

So the order will be a 1.5x FCD set and a one way something. I have two options, a one way centre pulley or a one way front axle from the ARD CE-R which is the similar chassis.

Head theory suggests the one way pulley will place less stress on components and be the faster and cheaper option. The second option requires replacing both pulleys. Probably look better.

It's all crazy!

Semi-happy!

RE-R Build Complete

2011-10-11T07:37:00.000-07:00

Well, it took a while to get to this point. Take a look at the beauty!

This is the full normal RE-R.

Solid axles and equal distribution 1:1 drive. I don't know why it was sold this way, but until I save another 10,000 yen for the FCD conversion and one way pulley or diff, it's going to stay like this.

Issue # 1. These are the ball ends supplied with the RE-R. Obviously this was to overcome the situation that occurred with normal castor knuckles hitting the steering mechanism. But as I have 7 degree castor knuckles with the excess removed for more angle, guess what happened.

BANG!

Stop and think.... Hmmm. ok, I'll just invert the ball joint, but it means the end point on the steering servo will need to be adjusted... it should be ok.

You can see the angle on the servo ball. Not good at all but at least it runs under the bell-cranks

Issue # 2

In this picture you can see the second oddity. that Spur is high!!!!!

When you see people running chaser jzx 100 bodies, I know why. they are the only bodies that will clear huge spur gears required for these brushless motors.

DRB is the only chassis thats low enough for a good low body. Remember that!

Even if you wanted to run a small spur in the RE-R you couldn't! There's not enough room for the motor to go upward as the cutout is not round. You could get in there with the grinder I suppose, but that's not really the point of a CUSTOM chassis.

Issue # 3

The wheel base. The Drift Package conversion "should" use your Yokomo drift package components and body holes etc, but the rear suspension mounts are in a totally different position, so all my bodies were skewed. I was a bit, no a LOT frustrated by this point.

Luckily, I was able to get some TN racing spacers and get things in a better position, but I'll need to fine tune it again. If you had adjusted your bodies previously at a different point, this could remain an issue.

#4 Battery retainer.

There's nothing supplied to hold your batteries in place. so other than fibre-glass tape like the OLD days most people run these 100yen velcro straps. Now on a premium chassis like this, do you really want to run tape?

So, I still need to fix the curly wiring in time and play with the ESC settings tomorrow, but I'm looking forward to a test. I'm sure it's not going to match my old FCD dori-pake setup, for now, but we shall see what new frustrations bring.

One thing is for sure, it will be fast.

I guess it was worth it to find out what's involved in these packages, it's strange whether to recommend it at this stage or not, because it's not at the level I desired yet. If RE-Xtreme RC were to supply one to a customer, I know what to add in the box and how much the real cost of an RE-R is. The CER-D11 also has it's options so the real cost of those is also a lot higher. DRB needs about 80,000 yen to make a competitive chassis only so I'm still way under that. but recouping some cost through the sale of your original chassis may be the determining factor in choosing a premium chassis for most RC users when upgrading.

Street Jam Keyence Brushless

2011-10-11T06:54:00.000-07:00

How Freeeeeeking cool is this!

I say very! Read the box. That's what it is. All my research led me towards Keyence. Japan's top brushless manufacturer and when I saw the is set in the exact spec I was after, it became cooler!

Now this has multiple brake settings and throttle initiations and all the good stuff.

But out of the box you will notice something strange. Now, high end products I understand are for people with a soldering iron and so forth but this is half baked idea.

1. The sensor cable for the motor is short. Maybe 5 cm. But the motor leads are long. about 15cm. 3x longer. and when you connect the motor as well they are about 20cm. Now if you want the long ones then you would need to buy another sensor cable. Not good. And if you only need a short one then you have to cut the others. That just sucks. Now most people run these Kawada connectors. So why not just fit them if they are the best.

2. The other thing is the battery connector. NOT in BOX. So of course I had to buy one of these also. Cheap but the thing is. when you spend a considerable amount, you'd like the small options to be included.
Maybe three different cheap connectors. Again the cords are long and you are obviously going to cut them off, so why solder the ends? Sometimes I'd like to slap some people. I would have loved to be in the business meeting for that one.

So the ESC is good, but it will take a little while to get it all in the final positions and the motor wiring will also require some work.

Now the motor, is all good. It's a great black paint and machined version. I was thinking of the grey one and then buy a blue 1/2 case, but the finish on this is great.

7.5T is equivalent to a modified 11T brushed motor, so it's strong.
for comparison
13.5T is equivalent to a stock 27T brushed motor.

Once I wire it up, it will be perfect.

RE-Xtreme Tsunami RC - Coming Soon!

2011-10-07T09:01:00.000-07:00

Stay tuned for something special from RE-Xtreme RC Division.

Strike a Pose

2011-10-05T04:22:00.000-07:00

Here is something cool, I picked up this figure to pose with some of my cars, there's a few similar styles in Japan. Second hand shops have many really cheap.

Against the AE86. it's about the right size. AE86 is very big compared to say a JZX Chaser with the same wheelbase.

Scale is actually about 9th scale. Against my RX-7s it's a little big. but effective none the less. It should match the RWBs pretty well.

You can search for these... クローズZERO II リアルフィギュア

RE-R Build

2011-10-04T07:52:00.000-07:00

Well, I'm a little disappointed with the RE-R conversion.

Basically for what isn't in the box. Just a couple of small things could have been recommended. You buy these boxes with little idea whats involved, So I'm on a steep learning curve.

The conversion requires Yokomo Solid axles (not included) so I had to get some before proceeding on the main build but now I've swapped the suspension over. I'm a little happier.

It looks amazing.

Anyway.
I didn't check, because every RE-R on their website is FCD, but the original is not. The FCD gear set is 7000 yen so this puts me into the territory of simply buying a whole new chassis.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=pdSxM0oAu20 This video is 40/14 & 20/32 for a rear bias but thats a long time ago.

these days two are available 1.5 is 20/32 1.7 is 20/36which is best... 1.5 do it!

I could have got a whole new car like a DRB for just a liitle more.

It's strange building something like this. The new parts are there but it's strange merging the clean and dirty.

Now I'm looking at the allow Yokomo toe and suspension mounts for $40 and a few other things which will almost bring the chassis up to $400 + I'm in need of a brush-less motor and amp $170... Later

And I'll want to run a new pinion and sprocket so that's another expense. $20

I should have just bought a Yokomo DRB and been done with it then sold the old chassis, which I now can't do. So the advice is to get a CE-R or GR-X or Kazama. Something you can contact me about in the near future.

Anyway, if it does work out to drive well. I'll be well happy, but broke.

So I don't recommend going this route.... YET...! We shall see. Once the new Keyence goes in.

It's starting to come together.

RWB 993 RC Progress

2011-10-04T07:45:00.000-07:00

Well the RWB 993 Porsches are proving to be a pain in the ass.

The slow progress of smoothing the fenders, filling the holes in the wings, painting the drivers printing the interior details etc

I know it's not far away, but details take time.

Anyway.

Here are some progress details.

Drivers are Tamiya LHD racing drivers. I don't recommend these at all, PS paint doesn't stick to them at all, so rather than paint and mask. I had to paint the base, then do the rest by hand. .

Color.

I'm going to use black as a base. 1. Because the green needs a solid background and the grey is so thin, I'll need to be able to see what I'm covering. It will also blend other areas where paint has become thick.

The bodies are going to be heavy because there's about 5 layers of paint and putty etc but who cares.

So 1 car is almost finished.

But the other still needs to be masked and puttied. I'm going to get stuck in tomorrow and see what I can finish.

ps. new engine detail.