Sakura D6.
The Budget Build.. Is the hype overrated?
The cost. Yes its cheap so expectations should be low for quality but I expected an easy build.
Don't expect a 10 year old to build this chassis. It's a major major undertaking!!
Why... All the plastics are incredibly hard! Maybe that means durable. but it also means it takes so much energy to build this thing.
After way too long. I eventually found the things I needed. a Tap and a modified hex driver. But it was a bit late. already way too frustrated by that stage.
Plastic c clips ... Hmm perhaps the softest plastic.
Hammering some of the ball ends into place is sometimes the only way. Instructions are a bit vague. etc etc
Tips from youtube review videos are too kind to 3racing.
It's an f tard to build compared to anything else I'm used to. add to that some wierd proprietary setups locks you into sakura!
Anyway... a friend and I built them together and we did get there... 5 hours later.
We were at shock build stage. but by this stage fingers were destroyed and there are some other major considerations.
Battery / Motor location and modifications
Normal OTB Build is "UMR" Upper Mid Rear position motor
The battery holder will not support a shorty lipo in this position.
WTF@&#^%@^$@&^%&@^#% and @&^%#@&^%&@$%@
In fact there are 3 positions drilled in the chassis and NONE will fit the stock spur gear.
This shows the height expected of a SHORT SIZE only lipo. Cannot run a long nicad either. You need to add spacers or flop this around.
2 options...
Option #1
Drill an extra "6" holes in the chassis as I did for one chassis.
Body choice has a lot to do with why you may need this because if you can't move the motor to the rear option, you have no other choice.
The resulting clearance still absolutely wedges the battery under the upper deck mount. probably needs shaving also. because this will impact twist also. See below for another solution.
I looked at the chassis many many times for options for the battery solution... but there was also something else.
Because we were using a Celica TA22 with not much rear space this was the only choice.
Body check stage.
Chassis Height in front is a MAJOR issue. This is a Tamiya RX7 sitting directly on the shock towers.
If you like low bodies and low things, the Sakura D6 is not for you.
We managed to fit the Celica. Not as low as we want it. In this picture it's also squashed on the near ineffective shocks.
Push down and the chassis stays there. The provided o-rings bind in the shocks.
I had already built the 8 shocks with stock o-rings. Luckily I had some old stuff lying around.
But the originals are useless. I rebuilt what I could to replace with the Blue Yokomo O-rings.
And yes the chassis now works. Even the plastic shocks are fine.
But now back to ... OPtion2 the Rear motor.
After deliberating and resolved to only use boring boxy bodies. I set about rebuilding the chassis again in URR layout.
Option #2 Upper Rear Rear Motor. (scan the back page of the manual for the
link to the manual)
This changes a few things about the chassis. rebuild the gearbox and swap positions of many items.
The motor goes to the rear
The rear shocks come in front of the rear towers.
It pens up the chassis so you can use the battery holder.
It adds even more low body issues now at the rear and you need a long rear also.
but there is still the battery wedge issue.
So shave/trim the upper mount and swap the front of the holder.
So this is what you can end up with. a 1mm gap for the battery not to bind on anything.
Chaser fits, cause it's high. MST A90 is also a good choice if you want sportish.
Another thing I hate is the proprietary 3 racing axles (3mm threads and nuts) and the brake hub design with tiny screws that screw into the hub. Yes they are there but for how long? I don't know.
Bearings are marginal and stock rims and tyres are not "ROUND"
First test was good. Drift absolutely adequately.
No major drama...
Except the ride height is ridiculously low.
Already scratched the Beejezus out of the chassis. #consumables. So I then began looking for alternatives.
then theres the vague rear active toe changes. pretty hard to set this up at what level is normal for accelleration and 100% forward drive.
FULL SPEED TEST.... get ready!
The beast absolutely rips in this mode. have to slow the steering a lot though and i think that will also translate to the drift also.
Thats it.
SO .
Recommended before you start.
3mm tap and tap everything.
2.0 mm hex driver bit
Body selection is critical. Low bodies... don't try.
Choose the URR or be prepared to modify the UMR layout
Build the shocks with good O-rings
Deal with the things 3 racing throws at you.
Constantly remind yourself it was "relatively" cheap after all.
But in summary, the 3 racing Sakura D6 is an entry level chassis for an expert.
It will stay as a basher... for street drifts and some grip. I doubt it will get to a polished concrete surface but you never know.
I'd expect performance to be RDX like as ackerman is good out of the box but it does have some adjustability.
