A long session Today saw some awesome tandems, trains and one out sliding.
As many remember the war heroes of the past and those that served in past wars on this day, the developed world these days holds that the partners and allies of battles would involve those that were enemies some time ago. I have no issue whatsoever driving my German car to an Australian venue to get enjoyment from products made in Japan that resemble Japanese machinery. We just remember the relative freedoms those countries have and the cultures that may have been lost.
Anyway, this day is a holiday, so many were at the track. As many of us have progressed, there is a feeling that we can turn up and find an attack partner.
My attack machines for today would be the RE-REEPER DRB CS3.0 and the Asamoto FD DRB 3.3
Lights installed, Air freshener in, polish on.
As is the trend at GCRC, place your car on the track and you'd better be prepared for battle.
New bodies do take time to "SET UP" and this one is no different. but it's also hard to do when someone is right on your door.
I did manage to find a bit of space to get a feel for the body. It's relatively light compared to some of my others, so I'll need to address that.
Black on Black is hard to drive. you literally can't see anything from across the room. So the Red Wheels may come out.
As accuracy is limited.
But this is not a competition body. It's made for some fun.
And Fun I will have.
Stay tuned for some awesome photos to come in part 2.
Russ are you and the other drivers at gcrc following the korogashi method?by the way the black looks killer!
ReplyDeleteYes,
DeleteWe (regulars) focus on single turn in and hold constant angle through the corner with near zero correction.Most cars sit between CS 2.5:1 and CS 3.5:1, This tends to give you the ability to hold about 45 degrees constant angle through corners.
It's then up to the driver if they straighten intitiate () or hold a constant arc if they want to.
We have been trying to setup the cars to hold the lead wheel at exactly the direction of travel. I think we have realistic looking machines.
GCRC is low grip and the results are smooth high accuracy drifting.
I have some more pics to come.
thanks for the answer.i run mostly on slippery asphault.have you ever tried high cs on slippery asphault or should i stick with 50% and tune from there?what would you do?
DeleteWhen I started, I used to run in car parks and anywhere. I thought RC drift was 50:50 style, but as the hobby has evolved there is more access to parts and information to replicate real drifting.
DeleteIf you want to get a more realistic look, higher CS is needed. When you watch real car drift from on board cameras, the steering swings from one side full lock to the other and held for the whole corner.
High CS almost gets to RWD so you can replicate the real cars.
You will need to change the setup a bit, but you can have fun with high CS.
If you have a HUGE car park size track and you never get close to car. don't worry about it.
If you have a tight track and spend a lot of time close up. You will be concerned with detail and reality.
thank you russ!
Delete