STREET JACK MAX ONE - Hobby Garage

Here's a look at some cool beasts from the guys at Hobby Garage Japan.

The first is this Sil80with bit's and pieces from everywhere. there's a lot going on.

The bonnet protectors add to the realism. I guess it's got a bit of USDM feel to it. monster tacho on the dash is cool!

speaking of dashes... this usdm look civic is insane. who'd of though to make a dash mat? Hobby Garage!

The rear has a small scooter in an Al. lined rear section.

Front light detail is cool and the mooneyes tag hanging from the mirror is another nice touch. 

Bone, Cream, Ivory, Brown Beige whatever. and those wheels are an awesome choice. roof bike is still a bit much, but thats the style. Authentically replicated.

It is only a Display Body. But the chassis is a runner.

The guys were running this EK9 on the day. While not quite up to level of the EG, it still looks the part.

I've come to learn that body lines are a necessity for a good looking machine.

whether taped painted or drawn. This Hachi is a cool version... another Wild Willy driver inside. These really are a good size for the 86 and larger (smaller car) 1/10 bodies.

All the guys together.

Here is the last "Boro Boro" AE86 rusty beast.

the body is painted outside, but the bonnet has a coating of rust.

Looks like it's been parked at Ebisu Circuit for a few years.

STREET JACK MAX ONE - Chassis Heaven

Awesome doesn't even come close to this one. Tamiya Lovers dreams are coming true.

This chassis is a showcase of wonder.

Front and Rear IFS!

Black and blue theme... has serious continuity.

It's a TA05 VDF with the custom IFS setup. The body attaches with a reverse body mount system that sits on the top and then is pinned from below. pretty cool.

This is said body. A beast in itself.

Anyway, the owner brought a bunch of chassis, so lets look more.

This is a TA-06 base with an American import chassis. X-----? something I don't remember.  The steering is a pretty freaking cool design that will allow for insane angle. TWIN SERVO!

Front links are 20000 yen Tatsuken Ashi. they are infinitely adjustable.  

One of the hottest products right now. but only the rich can afford them. the front and rear set is over 30000 yen. That's another chassis for most people.

Anyway, this machine has TRF dampers updated with Overdose caps, spring holders and adjusters. the springs are becomming popular too. this very soft quick acting spring style is catching on.

Wrap up next carbon sheet used on the servo. and OD parts to finish it off.

Here is a TA-06 similar to my own... except the plastic tub remains. These are still among the best handling drift chassis in Japan. Don't let the rear motor freak you out. There's a lot of people overseas jumping on the front motor design. But really I've never seen one work more effectively than the mid or rear designs and almost NO pro drivers use them in Japan.

Anyway, this is set. RC square, Overdose and TRF is a good combo. should be around 90000 yen for one of these. New.

Anyone want to buy mine...?  RE-Xtreme TA-06 PRO Tsunami Spec Phase 2.2

Anyway here is the last of the set. It seems to be a  TA-06 with a lateral battery position and a few Overdose mods for reliable drift setting.

There is about 5 grand in chassis right here. Lift your game people.

Bodies are for show, but the oohs and ahhs come from the bling chassis.

Tsunami 86 - Update #1 Fendering

OK, the Tsunami 86 is out of the box and on it's way to awesome.

86 Fender Tutorial inside.

Im using the Speed Way Pal Over fenders on my 86s so here is a little tutorial if you want to try it.

This is how much you need to cut away from the fenders at the front. You can see I am really cutting away a lot for sus travel. But the result will be a body drop of around 4-5mm at the fender line.

The concept is based on a Uras-Style Nomura Ken 86. So the fenders only need to be half.

You will actually end up with just enough for 2 sets if you do it right.

The rears will need a little massage to stretch about 3mm at the front side.

Here are some wheels against the normal fender. I hate how much height there is above the wheel.

You will need to stretch these fenders about 6-7 mm at the front.

I usually cut them at 10mm all round then trim the edges you need to.

You can see the kind of angle. I'm dropping 3mm to the base.

So here you can see the result. Fender is raised about 5mm. and I leave a bit of meat for the Shoe goo to stick to later. Body is not yet cut in this picture.

the elongation begins by massaging the fender along the crease. takes a while but don't crease it too much or there will be stretch marks in the lexan.

Here is the front result. It's not circular. It's now oval towards the front. rear is trimmed 3mm. Front is left at 10mm.

The result is one tough 86.

For this build I grabbed a yokomo 1/12 Gt500 NSX rear mounted wing. (I also have a tamiya version) The yokomo wing has a separate wing stay allowing for angled installation. While not in the exact locations as the Rocket Bunny Version. I think it will work nicely.

The 45 degree end plates will allow the space I need for wall scraping.

I think it's going to be cool...

Option 1. Blue.
 or
Option 2. Wild Blue and chrome livery... which might take longer than I thought.

 What to do? mental D1 style or Street Smooth?

You need to paint before the fenders can be attached unless you paint outside. Stay tuned for more tutorial.