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Well, it took a while to get to this point. Take a look at the beauty!
This is the full normal RE-R.
Solid axles and equal distribution 1:1 drive. I don't know why it was sold this way, but until I save another 10,000 yen for the FCD conversion and one way pulley or diff, it's going to stay like this.
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Issue # 1. These are the ball ends supplied with the RE-R. Obviously this was to overcome the situation that occurred with normal castor knuckles hitting the steering mechanism. But as I have 7 degree castor knuckles with the excess removed for more angle, guess what happened.
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BANG!
Stop and think.... Hmmm. ok, I'll just invert the ball joint, but it means the end point on the steering servo will need to be adjusted... it should be ok.
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You can see the angle on the servo ball. Not good at all but at least it runs under the bell-cranks
Issue # 2
In this picture you can see the second oddity. that Spur is high!!!!!
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When you see people running chaser jzx 100 bodies, I know why. they are the only bodies that will clear huge spur gears required for these brushless motors.
DRB is the only chassis thats low enough for a good low body. Remember that!
Even if you wanted to run a small spur in the RE-R you couldn't! There's not enough room for the motor to go upward as the cutout is not round. You could get in there with the grinder I suppose, but that's not really the point of a CUSTOM chassis.
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Issue # 3
The wheel base. The Drift Package conversion "should" use your Yokomo drift package components and body holes etc, but the rear suspension mounts are in a totally different position, so all my bodies were skewed. I was a bit, no a LOT frustrated by this point.
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Luckily, I was able to get some TN racing spacers and get things in a better position, but I'll need to fine tune it again. If you had adjusted your bodies previously at a different point, this could remain an issue.
#4 Battery retainer.
There's nothing supplied to hold your batteries in place. so other than fibre-glass tape like the OLD days most people run these 100yen velcro straps. Now on a premium chassis like this, do you really want to run tape?
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So, I still need to fix the curly wiring in time and play with the ESC settings tomorrow, but I'm looking forward to a test. I'm sure it's not going to match my old FCD dori-pake setup, for now, but we shall see what new frustrations bring.
One thing is for sure, it will be fast.
I guess it was worth it to find out what's involved in these packages, it's strange whether to recommend it at this stage or not, because it's not at the level I desired yet. If RE-Xtreme RC were to supply one to a customer, I know what to add in the box and how much the real cost of an RE-R is. The CER-D11 also has it's options so the real cost of those is also a lot higher. DRB needs about 80,000 yen to make a competitive chassis only so I'm still way under that. but recouping some cost through the sale of your original chassis may be the determining factor in choosing a premium chassis for most RC users when upgrading.
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