EVO X -PAIN ting

The Evo X back and man why do I decide to do things the difficult way. 

My design proved quite sound. 

Shout out to Martin Frener on the cuts. 

Masking in reverse... what a hassle.

Various layers had me singing the sarah lee song. Layer Upon Layer Upon Layer

Slowly the layers build up. 

This was the first Mini Peel. Exciting. 

But there was still a long way to go. 

Am I done... Yes! finally the peel

Quick grab some wheels... what does it kind of look like.  

Still heaps to do before it's ready to be destroyed on the sakura D6. 

Goo, Wing. Light Buckets, mounting etc etc.  

RX7 RE-MOUNT

 

I decided to run this again after a few years 

The main reason i hadn't run it, was because the rear of the interior was very chassis specific. 

Anyway thats now gone and that means flexibility

I also magnet mounted the rear wing. previously it was wingless.  

I have these rims, but I change my mind every 5 seconds so it may not show up on track like this. 

Lets Go!

But for now, it's good to go on the YD2-RX rear Motor. 

The YD2 ZX  mid motor and crazy camber receives the Fortune. 

On lock, you don't notice the camber. 

Nor Side on. 

This is a long body with a decent aero effct so will be good to see the YD2 ZX perform. 

YD2 ZX Crazy Set

 

The ZX is always going through changes

High mount. reposition of esc. 

But the major one is the front camber. 

in 2011 when I ran this body I used to have 13deg camber on the front. and I still see some people doing this today. 

[Some not all] Real D1 cars still use this crazy setup because you can argue that the flat lead tyre is the most important. 

but i think over time the parralel ackerman and less camber has out performed this high camber setup.

Anyway... I wanted to see how much understeer may be present in a setup like this once more. 

It's been a long time. 

If you aren't straight, why setup for straight? 

Sakura D6 Tune

So Am I still dissapointed in the D6. 

Yes.

Theres a distinct lack of flexibility that means setup requires custom parts.  

Case in point. 

The rear Suspension is kind of OK. I found a good spring and the custom upper mount allows for full sweep and without the chassis bottoming out.  

Here is a basic setup. I am trying to find a compromise for the active toe change see silver spacer. 

So I can now get a large range.

Basic overview of the belt drive 

Front... you can't do anything. Because there is only on hole on the lower mount, you can't even add parts cause they just twist. I was thinking mono... but there's a bit more design before I chop the towers off. 

The Alloy parts dont solve the issue either with suspension, but the chassis looks wheel base adjustable. Thats interesting. 

EVO X Rally Time!

It Rally time so lets go for a Rally inspired EVO X. The sakura D6 will run outside in the dust. 

Project Starts with a "LanEvo" - specifically a Pandora Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X.  

Cut was super easy, just a bit fiddly around the front lights. 

And the fender wells I'll wait to trim once painted. 

I built this one years ago as a tommi goes drifting tribute. 

So I was thinking something similar... but it turned into a more modern approach to rally x

this is the current design I'm tweaking in assetto corsa. It's a good platform to try things

Sakura Testing

 

So it was test time on a track for the Sakura D6. 

About 100 different attempts at alignment got me close. It's those 1/4 turn and 0.01mm adjustments that get the front end working, but it definitely needs better bearings to prevent some lockup at angle. but over time changes in spring rate and length may result in a better performing chassis. 

Roadside RC rear suspension mounts move the shocks a little bit too low meaning that the ride height is not manageable with the stock springs.

I was trying to get by with this setup. 

I replaced the originals with D-like ultra soft and a RC-926 helper, but its not really enough as I'm maxed out on spring length to support the rear motor. therefore I couldn't get the rear soft enough for grip, so...  added about 300g of extra weight (temporary tool placement ) on the plastic chassis I started to get close to where I needed to be. 

Since then I went through my large stash of old springs and found something very good and I'm back in control of stroke / suspension travel. 

Now it's just the massive active toe change at the rear ... -5 degrees toe in ~ +6 degrees toe out . you just have to let this do it's thing, but I find on off trottle near corner entry a bit un nerving. 

Still... for a cheap chassis, OTB performance is pretty damn good. (once you replace all the things mentioned in the previous post.) 

And in the end my desired surface and the target use with a group of beginners will be just fine.  

YD-2 RX was much better, until it's plastic wheel hubs/disk brakes broke yet again. I think that's about 6 sets that I've broken now.   

It's just a design flaw between the pin placement and clamping force to secure the wheel. Scale vs performance... we all know the trade off. 

This is the test location. The track was goat track.

It's a tight track, so remember to drive slower ,initiate earlier and from your 3rd lap you'll be hitting every zone every time.   Take the wide red zone line to extend every corner.