RE-Xtreme RC DRB-REW Prototype #001 - DEBUT and play!

Setup nearly complete. FD3s Installed.

RE-Xtreme RC DRB-REW Conversion is ready for it's first live test. result--- AWESOME!

RE-Xtreme RC DRB-REW Prototype #001 - Wired

Wiring in... first laps around the kitchen tile are of course great.

RE-Xtreme RC DRB-REW Prototype #001 - Inboard Twin

Getting closer to debut.

Sanwa M12S - The Learning Curve

Updrading can be good, but adding a stack of features can mean more complexity.

RE-Xtreme RC DRB-REW Prototype #001 - Twin Config

Starting to install my test setup. Specifically designed for Twin Servo.

Sanwa MT-4S 40th Anniversary Edition 4-Sale

Sanwa Denshi - MT-4S 40th Anniversary Digital Proportional Radio Control System.

For Sale...

RE-DRB OD SSG Typhoon Spec 2.22222

I'm in the process of upgrading to CS 2.22 on the DRB.

Wild Rusty

Lets have a rough look at Wild Rusty.

I didn't spend long on this. It really was a rush job in an hour or so.Driver is a Wild Willy II driver set. Cost is about $5

Servo is high tec. cheapest available. I was just lucky the blue matches the chassis. I had originally planned to mount the servo inside the body of the driver, that's why there's a bug cutout in the back. 

But mounting troubles led me to simply locate the servo off the chassis and use a weak bell-crank to operate it.

I had already started to hollow out the head, so it was pretty easy to make a little adjustment to the servo horn.

The driver has a post mounted to the arm. It's in a favourable spot for the drb. First mounting with a tapping screw and plastic post was not secure, so I used metal mount and spacers to get the height I needed.

So there it sits with uncleaned up wired looking pretty ugly. I later added the stickers for visibility.

 But the chassis needs a clean up.

I have a small plan for another channel so stay tuned for the super Wild Rust.

ps. please excuse the poor photos...

Keyence TAO to Tachyon ESC Setting

I love my Keyence ESC. It gives fantastic control and it NEVER EVER gets hot.



Because it's a Japanese Market Product the usage is straight forward, simply connect to the ESC and update.

But there's one thing that catches many every-time. Data Link .... FAIL! The English User manual for changing to Setting Mode on the Tachyon ESC is a little vague.

Turn it on,  Press the ESC Button for 4 seconds until the lights change on the ESC. This will switch between RUN Mode and SETTING mode. While in SETTING mode the car will not run and you can change settings on the ESC itself with the buttons but TAO is much easier.

After Data Link updating is complete on the ESC, simply turn off the Tachyon ESC. Settings should be saved.

If you turn it on again and the car does not respond. You are probably still in SETTING mode so hold the button for 4 seconds to swap back to RUN mode.

Lets look at the TAO itself.

Set mode can be done anytime and does not need to be connected to the ESC. I'm only doing it here, because I didn't charge the TAO, it's running from the rc battery.

 Simply adjust what you need and press save.

When you are ready, connect it all to the ESC with the receiver plug. Make sure you are in SETTING mode.

Then start the Data Link.

Select which one you want to use. There are 3 user settings you can adjust.

Press enter to send it to the Tachyon ESC. (note ESC is not in SETTING mode in this picture. ESC lights are different.)

So you will get the Link fail. (only for demonstration)

Change the mode to SETTING mode.

This is the desired result.

You can also Preview what settings you have on the ESC before you data link update or Review them after you data link update.

You can also press SAVE directly from Preview mode to adjust settings directly on the ESC.

Must be in SETTING mode only. It will perform a reverse Data Link also.

Happy Updating.

Russ.

D-Like RE-R - Under the hood! Part #4

Today's job was to setup the sensors and get everything tested.

Thermometer sensor is simply taped to the motor.

RPM sensor is a light sensitive device. luckily I found a mounting solution. An old servo crank worked very well and adjust position easily!!! YAY RUSS!!!

So it's all installed. I need a soldering Iron to get everything shortened and sorted, but for now it's functional.

Unfortunately my Futaba Switch is incompatible so the lights are half off at the moment. It's a mess under there. I'll need a driver to hide everything.

D-Like RE-R - Under the hood! Part #3

Well... Today was early Xmas for me... I went to many shops in Akihabara to get a new controller and I found a 50% off this monster Sanwa MT-4 with receiver and telemetry sensors!

If you haven't heard about this new TOP LEVEL radio then go here. You will be amazed at the spec and functions.

I ended up paying little over $200 and that afforded me the latest  SRG-BL Brushless SSR Super Response High Torque Servo all for under $300

So now there are no excuses. I should be able to dial in the chassis and motor perfectly with the gear I have.

What brand is it Santa?

I'm unsure of the usefulness of the telemetry system yet, but I'm sure I can work out something.

Included are 1 temp and 1 rpm sensor.

Maybe someone could hook it up to measure angle rather that RPM... Interesting?

I'm stoked that I can get all this for the price... I had almost decided to get the MX11 but it's heavy and awkward.

Time shall tell. the manual is 50 pages.

Soon the install.

Keyence TAO

Today I picked up a controller for my Keyence Tachyon ESC and Luxon KG motor setup.

I can gain access to more settings that the stupid button combinations on the ESC itself.

It just makes sense and its easy to use. Just connect the RX cable.

I got the SR (shine Red) because it should be easy to find in my RC box. Also came with a reflective strap.

Manual is here.

I'm going to be putting together an option set for purchase so stay tuned. The best from Japan!

Street Jam Keyence Brushless

How Freeeeeeking cool is this!

I say very! Read the box. That's what it is. All my research led me towards Keyence. Japan's top brushless manufacturer and when I saw the is set in the exact spec I was after, it became cooler!

Now this has multiple brake settings and throttle initiations and all the good stuff.

But out of the box you will notice something strange. Now, high end products I understand are for people with a soldering iron and so forth but this is half baked idea.

1. The sensor cable for the motor is short. Maybe 5 cm. But the motor leads are long. about 15cm. 3x longer. and when you connect the motor as well they are about 20cm. Now if you want the long ones then you would need to buy another sensor cable. Not good. And if you only need a short one then you have to cut the others. That just sucks. Now most people run these Kawada connectors. So why not just fit them if they are the best.

2. The other thing is the battery connector. NOT in BOX. So of course I had to buy one of these also. Cheap but the thing is. when you spend a considerable amount, you'd like the small options to be included.
Maybe three different cheap connectors. Again the cords are long and you are obviously going to cut them off, so why solder the ends? Sometimes I'd like to slap some people. I would have loved to be in the business meeting for that one.

So the ESC is good, but it will take a little while to get it all in the final positions and the motor wiring will also require some work.    

Now the motor, is all good. It's a great black paint and machined version. I was thinking of the grey one and then buy a blue 1/2 case, but the finish on this is great.

7.5T is equivalent to a modified 11T brushed motor, so it's strong.
for comparison
13.5T is equivalent to a stock 27T brushed motor.

Once I wire it up, it will be perfect.