GCRCD 20171226 DEMOLITION

Perhaps the final session ... We definitely made it count!

GCRCD 2017 02 28 - Sky the Line

A last minute call for Skylines turned out these + one more.

GCRC - 2 is day #Part1

Another level @ GCRC.

A~BO~Muun + RE-Xtreme

A~BO~Moon style R32s are well known in Japan. These ones have been heavily influenced by the team.

D-Like RE-R Hybrid R

It's always surprising to see new developments.


What you see here is the latest in the RC drift evolution. The D-Like RE-R Hybrid Drive utilising on the rear section of the hybrid layout.

Number 157 in fact.

Standard features are full alloy and carbon components.

 Slide rack Steering. Long Suspension travel and high A-Arm Setup. this allows adjustment of the king pin inclination to be inside the wheel scrub radius.

Adjustable rear toe. rear shock adjustment is vastly different to most current chassis points.

 This is a heavy chassis that is very strong. thick bulkheads and large diameter turnbuckles are all for accuracy of movement. Usually a belt drive for the front and one way would be installed, but this owner has opted for Rear Wheel Drive only.

Gear drive for Sound. Bevel Gear controls drive to the rear spool. High mount battery is the latest layout.

Thick chassis for ZERO flex. The days of flexible chassis are gone.  Accuvance BS Dual 13.5T Luxon Motor peeking through the chassis cutout..

The chassis hides under this monster S14.

Work Equip Rims 20mm up front and 26mm at the rear. Wrap Up next rear tyres getting the grip required.

RE-R vs DRB Comparison

Yokomo DRB Hyper Drive SSG HT 1.8
vs
D-Like RE-R Weight Shift Master (X) Silver Version 1.67

Here is a look at the same type of performance. High end drift chassis.

Similarities.
Front Midship, Twin Belt 4WD Counter Steer Drift Machines.
Modified for CS with similar ratios, Front One Way Axle, Rear Rigid Axle.
45~50 Degrees of steering angle steering servo mid mounting.

Cross mounted battery position.
front belt has no tensioner, rear belt have tensioner.

STEERING 

RE-R had to be modified to get super fast response. The CE-RX steering was installed.
Basically now they both get a twin rail steering setup. Pivoting from a rearward position.

Presentation wise the DRB kicks ass here, but I have already found some parts shaking loose, so I'll need some thread lock on those. no drama. Both use Drift package style suspension.

RE-R and DRB require upgrades for castor and steering arms. these are interchangeable.

Major Differences in the centre chassis.
RE-R is simple. The Alloy pieces are 4. Motor and front axle are a single piece.
DRB has 14 in the main frame alone!!!!

I love the simplicity of the RE-R but the mounting of the belt pulleys above the motor is not ideal.
with the motor moving up or down you are really changing the CG with a small pinion. I actually found the motor was quite high with a small pinion.

The DRB is much more adjustable in this area. The motor is always LOW and the weight is kept low in the car. They definitely behave differently. A car that rolls a little more can be a bit more lively that one that pivots using harder springs etc.

This is totally user choice.

BUT

RE-R cannot only run a limited body selection as the spur gear really is high. I cut a slot 40mm long in my Tamiya RX7 body to accommodate the spur from the RE-R. In the DRB it's way below body line.

If you like low bodies, you can almost ignore a whole bunch of chassis from your list.

Almost all RE-R runners cut their bodies high, run less effective gearing or a BIG CHASER or Giant almost 1/9th scale Hachi-Roku

Rear section is very similar.  It'd be hard to pick them at a glance. But the DRB is not supplied with a bumper at all and mounting one looks difficult. You may be able to hang a bumper under the rear post.

RE-R is not supplied with a bumper like the DRB, but it does accommodate Drift package items and the Street Jam diffuser fits also. This is an option.

DRB battery clamp is good. Belt drive runs on the left. RE-R on the Right. CS gears are similar, but the DRB runs a smaller setup.

RE-R reommends to use bigger pulleys for CS rather than smaller ones. 20/32 vs DRB 15/??

 Originally these were all 50:50 drive. It's only been in the last 6 months that packages are being offered already set up for CS or FCD

This can be a 10,000 yen or $100 dollar saving from before. Basic parts required are One Way, Rear axle, Drive Pulley and belt, then Spur and Pinion to match.

D.I.Y is going to cost extra.

So the RE-R is a Drift Package conversion. And therefore, it ends up being converted into something like the RC-ART CE-RX with Yokomo suspension.

If you already have a TUNED drift package. Then you will still need 50000+ to build one CS capable.

The DRB is around 68000 with Camber maybe 75000 retail, but there are many deals around. It's pretty perfect out of the box.

Compare it to a CE-RX white wolf and I'd say extremely similar. It totally comes down to your preference.

The only major draw back of most midship designs is the spur gear. If you like low sleek body designs. Do get a DRB.

Both are top level and allow you run at the pointy end of the field.

The way I see it at the moment.

These are the TOP Japanese belt chassis. I've driven most and seen them all in action.

3 belt designs...
Street Jam OTA-R3R
Kazama Auto GP-XR (essentially the same as R3R)
Entry level is OT-AR31.
Tamiya T-06 with conversion. Eagle/Overdose

2 belt designs...
ARD CER-D11
RC ART CE-RX White Wolf

RC ART CE-R Chrimson Lightening
D-Like RE-R Conversion
Yokomo DRB HT SSG Hyper Drive. (early models had issues so should be avoided)
Tamiya VDF

There are a heap of Tamiya and Yokomo conversions out there too.

Enjoy your selection.  

RE-RX-7 @ MAX ONE

Big thanks to Kuni for making this. I love the slow mo!

It was a nice birthday present.

This is the D-Like RE-R CS 1.67 With CE-RX steering Keyence 7.5T Brushless and Sanwa MT4

RE-RX @ Max One Video

Here's a rather long video from the other day. I'm using my D-Like RE-R(X) with Celica Supra XX and Custom Yokomo RX-7.

The other cars are a Kazama GP-X under the Chaser and a Kei car set up for drift.

RE-RX @ MAX ONE

I didn't have enough time last night to enjoy the RE-RX's new found abilities. So, today was about consolidation and confirmation.

I slapped on the Jupiter DRS-10's which really match the RX-73 Shakotan and headed out.

I took the hook, but I forgot the exhaust... Damn!

I slapped the LED back in also. It's unfortunate that splitters don't last long though.

The venue was pretty empty so Kuni-san and I played chase on a different tight course. I was really enjoying this new-found ability and the car was performing beautifully.

Later on I swapped to the XX and old school rims.

The knight rider in the house.

I also had a close look at the Overdose DRB chassis. It's a nice upgrade, but I can't justify this expense personally.

A de-anodised DRB looks cool. I also have some ideas up my sleeve.

And you always find something awesome at MAX-ONE

Today was Kei-Car drift.

Stay tuned for a video... From me and one from MAX ONE.

D-Like RE-RX

 What you see here is the missing link.

I've dubbed the RE-R an RE-RX now because it's so far from the standard componentry.

CE-RX steering system is now in place. It's been strengthened with putty for durability. The original is a bit weak.

About the only issue I had was the motor wiring. But It moved out of the way without drama.

I'll be replacing the bushings with bearings in the future and I have a set of Team Bomer turnbuckles to complete the car.

I will develop a package from this. It won't be cheap, but it will be the best.

Russ.

Maximum One

Today I headed to Max One Tokyo as usual and I thought I had myself dialled in. My driving was fine by myself, but I couldn't get close to anyone else on the track. It wasn't fun. They would simply close in and pass.

There was something fundamentally wrong. With the low grip tyres I couldn't get control
So I changed to the Active tyres, and with high grip tyres it was better and felt good again, but there must be something wrong...

So I asked the "Pro" guys to drive my car and they recommended steering response was slow? How can that be? I have a Brushless Sanwa Hi Spec SSR Servo and it's basically the best on the market.

Well it turns out there is even more wrong with the standard RE-R than I though. The steering mechanism has now been completely thrown away... It's junk! To get these 1.8 CS chassis under real control you need super fast steering.

With great advice from the community. I now have something really special so maybe the RE-R will remain for the time being. I also have something to compare. I know what good feels like.

I installed a used steering system from a RC-ART white wolf and although it has wierd geometry, I now have much more steering. I've even had to trim the front sponge bumper away.

This change is amazing. After resetting,  the extra steering angle makes the car so much fun to drive!  I won't say easy, because there is still a lot of skill and concentration required, but now its really on another level. I don't feel like anything is wrong. Its almost perfect and I played for about an hour with the guys in tripple drift.

I was trying my best with my skill before, but now I feel the gap is only 5% not 15%  I have confidence again I don't have to do anything but have fun now.

I'll take some pics of the steering tomorrow. But for now I've removed the RE-R from sale. It's really that good. The only issue is, do I want to start the DRB?

 Amazing.

Max One Run

Max One Today because I wanted to try some things.

1. I confirmed my chassis is FUN FUN FUN.
2. I confirmed tyres make a lot of difference.
3. I confirmed my driving is B level.
4. I saw some intersting stuff.
5. I confirmed that you don't need bling to be good.

It's Xmas time at max one. Santa Clause and Mini Xmas trees. The RE-R is awesome now.

I managed to squeeze this FD onto my RE-R with about 0.5mm clearance on the spur.  This is the RE-R Chassis. White wheels with Moon-R tyres.

Good but... this is actually a drift package.

Secret Project.

The Active Hobby tyres simply grip! Maybe too much as speeds are fast! But braking, Control and simply all round better.

Anyway these two guys were awesome drivers and the chassis they were running makes you wonder about carbon belt drive, alloy cost.

Practice makes perfect. These guys have great skills.

And they thrash you with these things. A drift package with simple mods and a plastic OTA-R31. Esc and motor are good quality. Constant line and angle is their weapon.

 This starlet was pretty wild with typical shakotan bent number

But what's this?

Drift Truck? it was fast... why?

Isn't that an M chassis with a dead set of wheels?

No It's a heavy, 3x540 engine M chassis. But it works... Amazing.