2014 Spec

2014 Specs and Projects

My current stable of drift chassis includes 5 machines from Yokomo.

RE-Xtreme RC recommends running similar chassis setups to those available in your local area, but my own preference is for Yokomo products with Keyence and Sanwa electronics which developed while living in Japan. I also support some of the small Japanese manufacturers who try to scrape together a living by developing fabulous niche market products in the RC arena. Some of these are recently more visible to overseas customers and I do my best to support the little guys.

RE-Xtreme RC chassis specification varies by Maker Chassis / Construction / Main Tuning Parts / Colour and Specification of CS / Driver Ratio. I like to give them names just to basically brand them.

I have 3 Yokomo drift package DRB belt drive chassis. These are used for different techniques and target surfaces. I am setting up a shaft drive machine for super aggression and I hope to finally finish setting up a RWD chassis for that final move into realism.

With RC drift replicating the street spec machine, the weekend drift machine all the way up to the high power D1 level machines, I am building my chassis to replicate these differences.

RE-Xtreme RC Samurai coloring is Red / Silver / Black
RE-Xtreme RC Tsunami coluring is Blue / Silver / Black
RE-Xtreme RC Typhoon coloring is Polished / Silver / Black

Alloy and carbon/graphite components are used where possible resulting in .

Yokomo RE-DRB SSG OD Typhoon Spec 2.2  for D1 Spec

This chassis has taken over 3 years to get to this level from a high traction DRB. For the last year it progressed due to requirements of polished concrete. It has totally changed in setting and recently maintenance has been the focus, but there's more to do.

I have just adjusted to high torque 17.5T for D1 spec competition spec with the stiff black lower deck. I'll be adding a bit more front end treatment with TN racing Universals and Lower camber blocks in search for just that little bit more angle like my other machines.

Target is Carpet / Asphalt / Polished concrete. Anything you can throw at it.Telemetry and Heat sensors installed for hard competition draw.

Click for larger setting sheet.

Yokomo RE-DRB SSG OD Samurai Spec 3.0  for Street Spec

Debut in April 2014. this chassis was a DIB then a DIB Reverse, DIB 275, now converted to a DRB with Overdose, Kazama, RC926, Keyence, Square, Team Bomber, and more.

With Yokomo only making 2 runs of 100 red DRBs and DRB production now ended, I guess you could say this is the last rare build number 201.

17.5T proves to be an awesome combo for GCRC polished concrete but time will tell if motors and specs swap or remain.

Terrible design Kazama centre pulley mount has been replaced by this modified overdose item.

Type C components have been added and wrap up next upper arms. Just waiting on a couple of key steering components to complete the chassis.

Click for larger setting sheet.

Yokomo RE-DRB Overdose SSG Tsunami Spec 5.0  for crazy test and battle drift sessions.

This original blue machine is the workhorse. Puchased used as a test machine for setting changes and trying new things. Front end is the new capable type C setup and the CS ratio is now maxed out at 5.00x.

Ive tried 3.33, 4.44, 4.9 and now 5.0x. Theres a bit of modification to the steering and ssg tower to get this pulley in here.

45-9-20-20 for max thrashing.

The chassis has been modified to look more attractive with the OD plates and Type C front complemented by Wrap up components. With high Power 7.5T, It's so much fun to thrash.

Click for larger setting sheet.

Looks as good as rear wheel drive and moving in new directions

Yokomo RE-DPi-R Imadoki SSG Typhoon Spec R  for Rear Wheel Drive.

This Drift Package Type A/B/C/I has been a work in progress and gone through a few iterations already with help from Wrap Up Next and Active Hobby. Some setups more successful than others. I press on for aggressive Rear Wheel Drive drift without gyro.

Recent direction change with gyro for setup. Power is 21.5T and just awaiting ESC and Servo for this one.

Going for scale.

Yokomo RE-DP-DM CSG Tsunami Spec 3.4  for aggressive drift.

Just purchased is a discontinued shaft drive Drift Package Drift Master.

I managed to locate some nice pats that are completing this chassis. Front 40-10 underdrive kit from spice and team suzuki DPM setup is good for angle. Rear includes 2.0FCD and Team suzuki suspension. Power is currently 10.5T for attack.

Drift package is relatively indestructible. So I look forward to letting out some aggression.

RE-Xtreme RC uses the .RSG. (resonant simple graphics) brand for body design and build so watch this space.

This year or any year... there's always more to come.


  1. Just ordered my first Yokomo DRB SSG HT Black Edition.
    Gotta say the current spec you have is a piece of Art.
    Hope mine will look and perform the same as yours.
    Keep it up, hope your relocation goes well and thanks for your bloggs, nice stuff ; )

  2. I'd like to first say that you have some very impressive chassis setups!! They are second to none that I have seen! I have a question about your "RE-Xtreme Steering pin update" that you list on some of your DRBs. What exactly is that update? Is it something that eliminates or reduces the steering slop that comes from the steering rack. I have tried to eliminate it on my DRB by purchasing the Overdose steering rack, but, the right front wheel still has a lot of play. By a lot, I mean up to 4 degrees of play when I place it on my setup station for alignment. Any info you could provide me with would be greatly appreciated!!

  3. My modification locks the pin from below by inserting a grub screw from underneath to prevent loosening.

    The Overdose steering system and C Hubs are designed to work freely.
    However I've had to use celotape (very thin) to help the bearings seat properly in the sockets. this will remove some play,
    The C-Hubs are also prone to this, and clearances designed for no binding at full steering compression and full lock are simply needed.

    Without a completely different design like the Yokomo Type-C you will always have this issue (but that design also has it's drawbacks as you rely on ball joints alone.)

    Unfortunately, ball joints will also contain a lot of play. As Any steering design like the DRB usually contains 6 ball joints. 0.1mm x 6 is 0.6mm which can in itself be 4 degrees.

    think about the design.
    It's not a real car.

    Change all the ball joints regularly, use the small foam insert to help tollerance.
    Bearing seats even gluing bearings in can be advantageous.

    Hope these tips help

    The steering rack I was a little disappointed with the plastic spacers they use.

    The Yokomo arms will have less play, however they will also have more binding.
    the alloy will wear away very soon and then again you end up with play.

  4. hi, awesome piece of works, I am about to remove the colour and polish like yours. but I wanna know it that make things thinner and affect the accurancy? espeically the location where bearing fit into it

  5. Yes, of course there is a corrosive effect the metal itself.

    Sometimes anodizing has the opposite effect of being too tight.

    I haven't been worried by the outcome. tollerance is still good.

    Maybe one or two pieces need shimming but sometimes bearings need that anyway.

    you can use a bit of clear celotape on the exterior of bearings if they need to fit tighter.

  6. hi. what bumper do you use for the DIB 275? which website can i get it? thanks

    1. in the last picture is just cut foam. custom. but now I don't run any foam bumper

  7. I noticed you were able to deanodize your front one way nicely. I'm thinking of doing the same to mine but am worried it may damage the internals of the fow. Can you share how you protect the FOW moving parts during the process? Also do you think it is a bad idea to deanodize the 1.8 fcd solid spool? The single piece appears to be held together with some type of adhesive. I Look forward to your opinion on this and thanks for a great blog.

    1. I didn't have an issue. I taped up the one way bearing when I deanodised to stop the chemicals getting into the bearing.

      Rear spool should be fine. but polishing the centre near the teeth would be very difficult.

      I did some of the original 15T pulleys but they were very difficult to polish.


Got a question or a comment. It doesn't hurt to ask.