Someone asked me today about Drift Package versions.
So here is a general explanation.
MR-4 TC SD
Mid Rear Motor 4Wheel Drive Touring Car Shaft Drive.
Drift Racer Ready to Run.
Stay away from these if you are serious about RC.
There are many many reasons that this is inferior. Spur was one size only moulded to include the mounting support. Plastic parts were used a lot including the fixed length upper suspension arms and they don't have bearings. Very Very basic shocks are used also and basic dogbones instead of universal joints.
If you want to upgrade, you'd better just buy another complete chassis.
This is the cheapest chassis only version of the drift racer. Again.. not much use unless you want to replace 40% of the chassis to allow adjustablility. As above, Tiny Plastic shocks that cannot be oil filled are just some of the different parts to other versions. definitely cheap for a reason.
This version had no bearings either, thinner steel turnbuckles used on the suspension, long battery retainer. ie. basic indeed.
Most early production runs have this chassis. The Street Versions were Type A.
A small comparison is here in Japanese between the type B and Drift Racer.
These had bearings, an easier to access battery clip, bigger turnbuckles for upper suspension arms and adjustable spur holder. More tune-able.
A lot of the boxed drift package sets are this version. But you have to check.
Carbon Graphite Moulded components were mixed with plastic for increased strength and fitting accuracy.
Refining the chassis.
This is the new design with different suspension, including; adjustable castor, camber, adjustable rear toe etc.
They have a front steering knuckle on the rear for rear toe adjustment, but because of this flexibility, it has more play on each corner.
Drift package type C has been released in special versions and is also copied by R2. The Type C has some alloy tuning parts to stiffen it up, made by yeah racing.
These version included some blue alloy parts and Shock upgrades. Kind of the real entry point.
"Imadoki" ( New is Old ) SSG conversion is good for converting an old chassis to FCD Countersteer and compatible with all versions.
But cost with another chassis is about the same as a DP-R, which is created for even better balance.
Key points here are the tribal chassis, new motor mount and longer wipers and one way included.
This conversion is now available in black and sold as the Aplha version.
LCG Black and SSG Silver
These have the graphite chassis and a completely different steering setup with belcrank to servo, different engine mount that eliminated the strange pinion tensioner.
The Silver Surface Graphite SSG version was available as the Type 3 Option pack Upgrade.
The Layered Carbon Graphite LCG version of the touring car has a slightly different upper deck.
The Drift Master was an older chassis that included some parts from the BD 1:10 touring chassis
and could be compared as a shaft version of the DRB. It uses many of the LCG touring car chassis components. Upper deck is 2 piece.
A favourite among early top level runners, but these days parts are basically unobtainable.
D-MAX has split batteries, a clutch for adjustable FCD Setting and good balance. It was Popular with Competetive Runners.
DPM was an evolution to a lateral battery version... Be careful of the rear shaft and lipos. Rear gear case is different. This chassis introduced another new wiper setup with a wider action.
Hope that helps explain a bit of history . Now for the current versions.
Newer versions are DP-R which is premium kit for CS drift and almost ready for RWD.
2015 RWD conversion set is required to convert older designs to RWD capable..
For CS, FCD ketsukaki drift, you will need upgrades, front knuckles, rear gear, steering arms and maybe a front one way. Some of these are included in the later models.
keep it in mind.