Yokomo DRB Hyper Drive SSG HT 1.8
D-Like RE-R Weight Shift Master (X) Silver Version 1.67
Here is a look at the same type of performance. High end drift chassis.
Front Midship, Twin Belt 4WD Counter Steer Drift Machines.
Modified for CS with similar ratios, Front One Way Axle, Rear Rigid Axle.
45~50 Degrees of steering angle steering servo mid mounting.
Cross mounted battery position.
front belt has no tensioner, rear belt have tensioner.
RE-R had to be modified to get super fast response. The CE-RX steering was installed.
Basically now they both get a twin rail steering setup. Pivoting from a rearward position.
Presentation wise the DRB kicks ass here, but I have already found some parts shaking loose, so I'll need some thread lock on those. no drama. Both use Drift package style suspension.
RE-R and DRB require upgrades for castor and steering arms. these are interchangeable.
Major Differences in the centre chassis.
RE-R is simple. The Alloy pieces are 4. Motor and front axle are a single piece.
DRB has 14 in the main frame alone!!!!
I love the simplicity of the RE-R but the mounting of the belt pulleys above the motor is not ideal.
with the motor moving up or down you are really changing the CG with a small pinion. I actually found the motor was quite high with a small pinion.
The DRB is much more adjustable in this area. The motor is always LOW and the weight is kept low in the car. They definitely behave differently. A car that rolls a little more can be a bit more lively that one that pivots using harder springs etc.
This is totally user choice.
RE-R cannot only run a limited body selection as the spur gear really is high. I cut a slot 40mm long in my Tamiya RX7 body to accommodate the spur from the RE-R. In the DRB it's way below body line.
If you like low bodies, you can almost ignore a whole bunch of chassis from your list.
Almost all RE-R runners cut their bodies high, run less effective gearing or a BIG CHASER or Giant almost 1/9th scale Hachi-Roku
Rear section is very similar. It'd be hard to pick them at a glance. But the DRB is not supplied with a bumper at all and mounting one looks difficult. You may be able to hang a bumper under the rear post.
RE-R is not supplied with a bumper like the DRB, but it does accommodate Drift package items and the Street Jam diffuser fits also. This is an option.
DRB battery clamp is good. Belt drive runs on the left. RE-R on the Right. CS gears are similar, but the DRB runs a smaller setup.
RE-R reommends to use bigger pulleys for CS rather than smaller ones. 20/32 vs DRB 15/??
This can be a 10,000 yen or $100 dollar saving from before. Basic parts required are One Way, Rear axle, Drive Pulley and belt, then Spur and Pinion to match.
D.I.Y is going to cost extra.
So the RE-R is a Drift Package conversion. And therefore, it ends up being converted into something like the RC-ART CE-RX with Yokomo suspension.
If you already have a TUNED drift package. Then you will still need 50000+ to build one CS capable.
The DRB is around 68000 with Camber maybe 75000 retail, but there are many deals around. It's pretty perfect out of the box.
Compare it to a CE-RX white wolf and I'd say extremely similar. It totally comes down to your preference.
The only major draw back of most midship designs is the spur gear. If you like low sleek body designs. Do get a DRB.
Both are top level and allow you run at the pointy end of the field.
The way I see it at the moment.
These are the TOP Japanese belt chassis. I've driven most and seen them all in action.
3 belt designs...
Street Jam OTA-R3R
Kazama Auto GP-XR (essentially the same as R3R)
Entry level is OT-AR31.
Tamiya T-06 with conversion. Eagle/Overdose
2 belt designs...
RC ART CE-RX White Wolf
RC ART CE-R Chrimson Lightening
D-Like RE-R Conversion
Yokomo DRB HT SSG Hyper Drive. (early models had issues so should be avoided)
There are a heap of Tamiya and Yokomo conversions out there too.
Enjoy your selection.