Well, it took a while to get to this point. Take a look at the beauty!
This is the full normal RE-R.
Solid axles and equal distribution 1:1 drive. I don't know why it was sold this way, but until I save another 10,000 yen for the FCD conversion and one way pulley or diff, it's going to stay like this.
Issue # 1. These are the ball ends supplied with the RE-R. Obviously this was to overcome the situation that occurred with normal castor knuckles hitting the steering mechanism. But as I have 7 degree castor knuckles with the excess removed for more angle, guess what happened.
Stop and think.... Hmmm. ok, I'll just invert the ball joint, but it means the end point on the steering servo will need to be adjusted... it should be ok.
You can see the angle on the servo ball. Not good at all but at least it runs under the bell-cranks
Issue # 2
In this picture you can see the second oddity. that Spur is high!!!!!
When you see people running chaser jzx 100 bodies, I know why. they are the only bodies that will clear huge spur gears required for these brushless motors.
DRB is the only chassis thats low enough for a good low body. Remember that!
Even if you wanted to run a small spur in the RE-R you couldn't! There's not enough room for the motor to go upward as the cutout is not round. You could get in there with the grinder I suppose, but that's not really the point of a CUSTOM chassis.
Issue # 3
The wheel base. The Drift Package conversion "should" use your Yokomo drift package components and body holes etc, but the rear suspension mounts are in a totally different position, so all my bodies were skewed. I was a bit, no a LOT frustrated by this point.
Luckily, I was able to get some TN racing spacers and get things in a better position, but I'll need to fine tune it again. If you had adjusted your bodies previously at a different point, this could remain an issue.
#4 Battery retainer.
There's nothing supplied to hold your batteries in place. so other than fibre-glass tape like the OLD days most people run these 100yen velcro straps. Now on a premium chassis like this, do you really want to run tape?
So, I still need to fix the curly wiring in time and play with the ESC settings tomorrow, but I'm looking forward to a test. I'm sure it's not going to match my old FCD dori-pake setup, for now, but we shall see what new frustrations bring.
One thing is for sure, it will be fast.
I guess it was worth it to find out what's involved in these packages, it's strange whether to recommend it at this stage or not, because it's not at the level I desired yet. If RE-Xtreme RC were to supply one to a customer, I know what to add in the box and how much the real cost of an RE-R is. The CER-D11 also has it's options so the real cost of those is also a lot higher. DRB needs about 80,000 yen to make a competitive chassis only so I'm still way under that. but recouping some cost through the sale of your original chassis may be the determining factor in choosing a premium chassis for most RC users when upgrading.