Saturday, August 22, 2015

Drift Package Weight Shift Drift Master Tsunami Spec R - The Destructor

Is it time to retire the 86...? Over a year of super hard running has taken it's toll. Not quite yet.

I finished the build of this body in November 20 2013!!! That's almost 2 years of impacts and repairs.

As a D1 drift machine you would expect this kind of Damage... So it's actually a pleasure to watch it degrade gracefully.

note: DRIFTLINE - "DORI-SEN" is a new brand that will be releasing some new stuff in due course. 

Underneath the 86 I've been running this chassis recently.

I tried many variatinos of RWD rc drift but waited on final commitment for a couple of reasons.

1. The first chassis conversions FR-D and FXX-D were designed around "reality" having the front engine and rear drive. I knew that this was not the best layout for RC performance.

2.  I wanted to see if the non-gyro RWD would take off as a viable option.... Not yet (depending on grip levels.)

3. The struggle for a setting that will match the Full Counter Steer Chassis for driving feel.

4. A conversion chassis is simply too expensive for anyone.

5. GCRC's surface of insanely polished concrete provided a much more difficult setup that other tracks.

Anyway... I progressed through the Imadoki roll chassis that worked pretty well, But I had purchased this used Drift Master as my base because...

1. the chassis was stiff and good for suspension tuning.
2. the open gearbox layout was similar to the DRbs that I have.
3. It was still a Drift Package... The most tune-able chassis in RC driftland. 

It's all a mix of parts like Active, Team Associated, Overdose, Wrap Up, Yokomo pieced together with old DRB parts and some custom pieces (Upper deck and front mount)

The slide rack is decent enough, But I see no reason why the new super long arms from Yokomo shouldn't work equally as well with less complexity.

Rubber bands to prevent +90 degree steering.

In the rear is a ball diff, but the biggest influence on these RWD chassis has been 3 things.

1. Weight Balance

Moving the electronics rearward creates good side to side balance, the I tried the battery in over 6 different locations, I've settled on setting it laterally, just in front of the rear shock tower. Behind the shock tower gave too much rotation. With a more grippy surface this may be ok, but at GCRC we chase grip at big angle and not slip. We are always chasing rear grip. Some may do this with tyre... but it's ultimately the chassis that hold the key.  With a grippy tyre comes less angle and I don't look for that. MST yellow is about the softest we should ever go to match CS car speed, but I am chasing a setting where I can revert to MST CS-R RED.

2. Front End Geometry

RWD requires perfect setting of the front end steering geometry. Just 1 degree of toe in the wrong steering zone can turn a perfect setting into a pig. I am still trying to run with "deep dish" rims of around +9 offset for a street setting, but after that I will change to +0 as is the norm in emulating Formula D and D1GP.

 3. Long stroke suspension.

The long stroke suspension has been something that came to light from adding weight. The rear of many chassis were ending up with super stiff springs and even then only around 1mm of rear suspension travel. This obviously incorrect setting had me searching for options to allow the chassis to run super soft rear that  would twist and roll with weight up top while still allow for compression and dive. The result was a 10mm increase in rear travel. With out the battery, the chassis is about 10mm ride height. but compresses to around 5mm.

A note on Power.

I run a normal drive ratio in the rear so why would I want a 7.5T creating a super insane unrealistic scale speed? I don't. So I only run a 21.5T motor. This setting prevents unnecessary over-rotaion of the rear wheels and results in more than enough grip per surface. I always have the option for more power with a full range of Accuvance motors in my toolbox, but as yet, I'm yet to see use for it.

So having completed this body for main use I'll be refining the "Street Spec" before heading back to D1 craziness once more and the 86 will return to service.

Plans for the later part of this year include some custom chassis conversions for the DRB.

Drift Package Weight Shift Drift Master Tsunami Spec R

Yokomo Drift Package Drift Master Chassis Kit
Yokomo Blue Alloy Aluminum Servo Mount
Yokomo SS Hex Screw set
Yokomo Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles
Yokomo Black Ball joints
Team Bomber Carbon Bumper Support
Drift Master Black Carbon Lower Deck Modified for Slide rack
DRB Black Carbon Upper Deck for Front
Custom RE-XTREME Rear Upper Deck  & Battery Holder
DRB Black Carbon Modified Mono Shock Tower
Custom 桃柵さん Black Carbon Bulkhead Brace Set 
Active Slide Rack Set
Overdose Blue Servo Saver Arm
Yokomo Brake Disk Wheel Hub
MST 5mm Wheel Lock nuts.
Eagle Racing Velcro Body Mount

Drive Train:
Yokomo Blue Alloy SD Front One Way Axle
Yokomo Stock Plastic Ball Differential (loose setting)
18T Yokomo Pinion86T MST Spur Gear
Yeah Racing  Universal Shaft (Rear)

Yokomo RWD Conversion Blue Alloy Front Suspension Y-arm.
WUN V2 Blue Alloy Front Upper Arm
Team Suzuki Alloy Rear Lower Suspension Arm for Drift Package

Yeah Racing Blue Alloy Rear Hub Carrier 0 Degrees Toe in 
Overdose Blue Alloy Suspension Mount Set
              Front : 0 Degrees (FF)
Overdose Blue Alloy Suspension Mount Set for Drift Package
              Rear :  0 Degrees (ADJUSTABLE)
Yokomo Blue Alloy Chassis adjustment spacers
                FF Spacer - 1mm
                FR Spacer - 1mm
                RF Spacer - 3mm
Rear Shock 
                Yokomo BD7 Black Alloy Shock SSS Size
                Team Associated Long Shock Shaft

Front Monoshock
              Yokomo BD7 Alloy Shock SSS Size
              Front: Yokomo 3 hole
              Rear :Yokomo 3 hole
Yokomo Shock Oil             
              Front: 200
              Rear : 200
Spring Set
               Front: RC926 Soft
               Rear: 30mm Tamiya Soft Spring + RC926 15mm Medium Soft and Separator

Alignment Setting:
              Front : Zero degree Toe Out
              Rear : 0 degrees Toe in
              Slight toe in on full lock
              Front : 13 degrees
              Front : 7 degrees
              Rear : 0 degrees
Ride Height
              Front : 4mm
              Rear : 5mm

 Keyence Brushless Set
  Keyence Tachyon Airia ESC (Silver Carbon)
  Keyence Luxon KG 21.5T Motor (Silver case)
  Keyence Chevalier Dash Capacitor

Keyence TAO Aggressive Drive Controller (SR Shine Red)
   Brake Power 24%
   Neutral Brake Power 14%
   Forward Speed 100%
   Reverse Speed 50%
   Drive Frequency 2KHz
   Brake Frquency 2KHz
   Neutral Brake Frequency 2KHz
   Turbo + Full Advance
   Boost Timing Full Advance
Direct Euro Battery Connectors
Kawada Motor Connectors
Keyence Black Wire

Sanwa MT-4S 40th 2.4Ghz 4ch Proportional Radio Control System
Sanwa RX-472 Receiver 
Sanwa SG-01D Gyro
Sanwa SRG-BLX Steering Servo

Charger and Battery
Hitec X4 Multi Charger

RE-Xtreme Power LiPo - 2/3 size Turnigy 4200mAh 60C LiPo Batteries x2

Tyre : GCRC
Front: RC-ART RT-02SH for carpet. Round profile 26mm
Rear: MST CS-R Medium Red or GA26.

Tyre: Millenium
Front: MST FR-F Gold  round profile 26mm
Rear: MST CS-R Green

Body : Toyota 86
Front Track: 205mm
Front Wheel: +9
Rear Width: 215mm
Front Wheel: +14

Body : FD3s
Front Track: 200mm
Front Wheel: +9
Rear Width: 200mm
Front Wheel: +12

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