Monday, February 4, 2013

RE-DIB-275 Project Start!



I've always been a fan of the VIP drifter, A JZX100 with 800hp 2JZ is always insane. In the RC world although the short wheelbase, makes them look wrong. So now Yokomo has developed the means, something bigger is coming. 275mm!


This Chaser is Due in March. Pity it's not a Mark II, but hey, still a JZX.



This will be my last chassis for a long long long long while.

I am more than satisfied with the capabilities of my current chassis.The Drift Package SSG 2.0 is brutal. The de-anodized DRB 1.5 is elegant but this will provide some flexibility in my lineup.

I have a bunch of parts left over from my DRB that aren't doing anything.
Alloy 1.5CS rear drive axle.
Alloy rear hubs 0.5 or 0.0 toe
Kazama adjustable width front hubs
Alloy front 7 deg lower block etc etc etc etc and many de-anodized parts.



I've received my DIB 275mm conversion chassis set and waiting for my main chassis set to arrive.


I've reserved a GOODYEAR Racing Kunny'z CHASER 275mm body that's due in March and I have plans to add one of my .RSG. designed liveries on this bad boy.

So while I wait until March, I can slowly piece together a good package that will include the above items and a few upgrades.

Yokomo has just released the Long chassis parts updates for the DIB chassis so it's a great time to start.
http://www.teamyokomo.com/product/drift/dp_dibl/dp_dibl.html

Here are the results of my research so far.
The chassis itself is 19mm longer than stock so I need the belts and FCD that will fit the best.
Here are the conversions.

DIB 275mm Long Chassis
CS 1.0 Normal    173T
CS 1.3     167T
CS 1.5     165T for my 1.5 FCD

CS 1.8     162T
CS 2.0     161T is my target

http://www.teamyokomo.com/partslist/chassis/dibl.html


DIB Normal
CS 1.0 Normal 160T
CS 1.3  154T 462mm
CS 1.5 152T    456mm
CS 1.8 149T    447mm
CS 2.0 148T  444mm
http://www.teamyokomo.com/partslist/chassis/dib.html

for others out there, If you get a CS 2.0 kit for the DIB, it should work with your original normal belt and the tensioners set to max.

Unfortuantely, I have a bunch of belts for DRB. but DRB belts won't fit.
DRB Normal
CS 1.0 Normal 184T
CS 1.3  178T 534mm
CS 1.5 176T    528mm
CS 1.8 172T    516mm
CS 2.0 172T  516mm

The slow build has started... but it will take a LONG time to build this LONG wheelbase.


16 comments:

  1. Dude, another chassis?! You're crazy! Great plans though, and I think I know what the Chaser will look like. Too bad its not a Mark2 right? :D

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oh yeah,

      Powervehicles inspired and wingless.

      Delete
  2. Dude,

    3 chassis will not be many. (How many do you have?)
    Some people out there have 10 or 12 chassis.

    I had 6, now I've ratified that to the 2 that I use and need.

    This will be the one I can enjoy for a LONG time.
    I'll be able to run a few variations and it won't be full alloy for a while.

    I've been in the hobby for 30 years.
    Can't stop now.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Lol yeah true, I was up to 26 or 28 chassis at one point.. But no spec'd out chassis like yours, just vintage stuff I got (very) cheap on ebay.

      Wonder how the longer wheelbase drives. So far there's only one of them in Holland and its not build yet.

      Delete
    2. My friend with a street Jam 290mm says it's the same. just a bit more stable if anything. But you know you can change behavior.

      I plan for a 2.0 FCD, but I'll start with a 1.5 and see how much weight I need to get it to rotate, then I'll move up to 2.0

      but that's a while off yet.

      BTW, you can use the HPI Big wheels with the New Yokomo R2 or R4 rings. I'll be going down this path.

      Delete
    3. Thats interesting! We are running the R2's now for the 2013 season as we have sponsoring from Yokomo. Which big wheels do the rings fit on? The oldschool 2.2"s or the LP29/32/35? I have a set of LP35's kicking about NIP that I have no use for. Would be cool if the rings fit

      Delete
    4. I'm trying to chase up some HPI red +9 LP35 Work rims from the weld cars. No luck.

      My friend has a street Jam 290mm. He is running the new Carpet 01R4 tyre rings on the LP35mm.

      http://img5.blogs.yahoo.co.jp/ybi/1/41/2c/marinehamakaze/folder/1013705/img_1013705_32212818_0?1359280719

      Delete
  3. Did you end up selling off your DRB test chassis that you ran along side your regular setup?

    ReplyDelete
  4. Yes,

    I had 3 DRBs that became all mixed up.

    Normal Black Chassis, Silver and Silver HT
    Mixed up Yokomo and Overdose parts

    I sold 2 of them.

    I sold the mad TA06
    and
    I sold 2 Drift packages.

    that's 6.

    I only have the SSG / Blue alloy Drift Package and the Black / De-anodized DRB.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Well, I am now definitely at 3.

    Secured my DIB Donor.

    Its a Used Red version with some Alloy and OD parts.
    Currently set up in BID reverse spec which will be interesting to test.
    Comes with a lot of bonus stuff.

    I'll post soon.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Hello RE-Xtreme!! I got a yokomo dib with cs kit 2.0, if you recommend me a good setup for carpet? many thanks.

    I say to you the optional parts that I installed:
    -Keyence Tachyon.
    -Keyence luxon kg 8.5t or 13.5t.
    -servo low profile.
    -front caster 7 degrees.
    -Cs kit 2.0
    -Pinion 30t(64p) spur 121t(64p)
    -Upgrade 1 for Yokomo DIB.
    -Rear toe in 0.
    -Front shocks: oil 300# and blue ssg yokomo long springs (awaiting to arrive my last order of you whit rc926 hibrid springs).
    -Rear shocks: oil 300# and yellow ssg yokomo long springs.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Seems like a good start.

      I'll be working on the DIB soon. I don't have a setup yet.

      for DRb
      I like to keep my car's suspension slow up front and fast in the rear.

      I usually run 7~800 oil up front and 1~200 in the rear. Springs slightly harder in the front than the rear.

      This is my only real advice.

      It's a style choice for camber, springs, tyre and traction. Usually try to keep this similar to what your friends run.
      If everyone runs similar settings, then you can enjoy good tandem.


      Delete
    2. "If everyone runs similar settings, then you can enjoy good tandem."

      quoted for good measure! working on this with my club.. but it's a difficult discussion with many people hahah.

      Delete
    3. Well,
      Most tracks in Japan specify a single tyre for use at their track. This at least roughly equalises the speed of cars. Outlay is minimal. Every one goes through tyres, the next set should be the Control tyre. simple.

      I'd recommend the one with the LEAST grip.
      Everyone buys those tyres and runs only those.

      I don't know why everyone likes speed.
      It decreases reaction time and doesn't look real at all.
      If you are slow, you can get real close and have maximum fun.

      Usually the top guys should be able to recommend a baseline.

      Russ.

      Delete

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