Sunday, October 2, 2016

Yokomo YD-2 Stocker + Part 2 Setting

So this is the Yokomo YD-2 in rolling chassis stock build. Let's check it out.

With step by step instructions (which I kind of ignored), I was soon on my way. These are the major components completed quickly.

Rear gearbox with geared differential. Front steering which runs through the front bulkhead.

pretty soon, the tub was complete.

The toe blocks of the YD-2 are BD touring car style with 3mm pins. That means a DIB/DRB FF 43.5mm block does just fine for Zero toe rear setting. 

I had some metal shock caps laying around and I did change the piston type to a domed piston in the rear. But that is the total of mods to date. Oil is silcon 200 and the chassis is pretty smooth with some slime and grease in the right places.

I found a 10.5T Yokomo Zero motor in my box, so that will do. Compared to the 30-76 gearing of a stock drift package. The response here with 20pinion-84Spur will provide a lot more control. But don't expect to get a much bigger spur than that. Pretty much at the clearance limit so far.

So I used all the recommended steering settings...

 and during the build I noticed a couple of things...

Front supplied Hub is 7mm! I guess that is to get around the fact that many Yokomo wheels are 3mm and would definitely hit the arms.
Also the steering stopper (supplied as a small additional parts bag) just seems to stop you getting enough lock. So that will be removed straight away.

So scrub radius and lock needs to be improved through settings & maybe parts. At least the YD-2 is pretty flexible in this regard, but being flexible, it would be nice if Yokomo provided a summary of settings for each of the holes. Stock castor is about 7deg and stock camber is no surprise 7deg.

That provides a flat leading tyre at about 45 degrees. Which is actually pretty close to the steering limit. But ackerman is pretty parallel throughout the stock setting.

This would definitely suit a high speed circuit where angle is not required. But for me, I'm used to a whole lot more lock so now I have built it, I'll have to work out how to re-position the steering for more lock and as usual change a few things. I can see why the stock machine doesn't really please those with already tuned chassis but it has the potential for more.

Part 2 Re-Setting.

Releasing lock from the YD2 is pretty easy, but Yokomo's RWD is still not for beginners. You have to know what to do.

Using different positions on the knuckle and wiper / rack as well as using extended lower arm position, removing the lock stopper, removing the 7mm hub and replacing that with a stock 4mm item, moved shocks inboard for clearance. Adjust front toe and eventually you get close to what is a better start point for me. 

I regularly enter corners at this angle, so control is paramount. 50degrees wasn't going to cut it.

So now I'm happy to start testing from here.

I managed to squeeze a 90T spur... there's about 0.5mm of clearance and I added some OD garnish.

This will suit our small track and alloy more rpm control.

I also went for a bit more power. Accuvance...Luxon still needs wiring and finally a new body mount.

So with a stock Yokomo body on,  so I just need to install the ESC.. and rock!

1 comment:

  1. Great post! I have done many of the same things to mine. Still need to get rid of that toe in the rear though, I had heard folks were doing that and you just confirmed it for me. Will definitely be sharing this article around for those looking to get a solid base tune.


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