Hey there... Lets look at some wheel solutions for that perfect "Stance".
How can I stuff the biggest/deepest rims under my rc body? the answer is always three fold; Tyre Sidewall/profile, Offset and Camber.
While some people don't like the latter, I am a proven believer that an rc "drift" chassis can run just as well with a lot or a little. Anyway...
If you don't know the offset, just pad the spacers in the rear until the match the hub.
A 1/10 RC wheel is 52mm diameter and 26mm wide.
0 offset is actually a hub face of 5mm from the outside edge (usually) but these days it's better to measure 21mm from the back as different lips are being added.
0 offset allows 5mm for the hex nut to be fitted and still remain flush with the wheel rim.
the material around the center hole is usually 2mm thick. so lets check
far right is a Yokomo Drift Package Enkei NT-03 OFFSET +3 which is usually pretty stock on Yokomo.
there is a 16mm spacer to the rim flush +2mm of hub = 18mm .... 21mm-18 = OFFSET +3 or
5mm +3mm = actually 8mm to the hub face.
Track will increase 3mm each side over the Offset 0 wheel.
get your width of spacer again to the inside rim
this white top line wheel is Offset 12.
there is a 7mm spacer to the rim flush +2mm of hub = 9mm .... 21mm-9 = OFFSET +12
the silver M-type wheel is offset 10 but it has an extra 1mm lip making it 27mm wide.
there is a 9mm spacer to the rim flush +2mm of Hub = 11mm .... 21mm-11mm = Offset+10
If you calculated this from the outside face lip it would be different.
Offset +3 Track will increase 3mm each side over the Offset 0 wheel.
Offset +12 track will increase 12mm over an Offset 0 wheel. 24mm total, this makes things more stable, so Settings need changing as this will also effect spring rates as the pressure on a wider location will change.
If you need more to fill say a 200mm body then add some spacers
I love those wheels but they are the wrong offset. ... the simple answer is spacers. The RC square spacer system runs from 4mm to 8mm with thick and thin shims that optionally screw together for strength and they are clamp hubs for good setting on the drive shafts. I thoroughly recommend this. You can go wider easily and adjust within 0.5mm.
If you want to go narrower. There are a few 3mm spacers on the market from RC926 etc, but sometimes the shaft still only accepts 4mm, so you have to drill the wheel slightly. Also the wheel hub may touch your suspension so be careful. usually 4mm is the standard minimum.
For intermediate level users, increasing track width and scrub radius should start to be considered in setup.
As usual effecting one thing changes many others. so getting that exact look, may change chassis behavior.
This is an example of my setup for my FC. At full compression the body is sanded to allow a almost zero gap to the tyre. It never rubs even as suspension arc rises. 4mm hub and +9 wheel with RC926 tyre.
This tyre has a round sidewall so I cant get any wider.
If I run Yokomo R2 in this config, there is no way they fit. +6 is about the best I can do as the sidewall is MUCH higher.
So sidewall is important and companies like Street Jam and RC-Art offer 60 degree and 45 degree stretch look tyres. so you can get an extra mm without touch.
These are Kazama FXR +10 which are 1mm wider than the Top Line +9. Still no touch.
Then recently there are wheels from overdose, M's and topline that give more poke with an exposed rim.
These M's M-type +10 @ 27mm wide give an extra 1mm (only on the outer edge.) for a wider impression.
FXR +10 with Street Jam 45 degree + 7 degree camber
I also run about 7degree of camber on the reargiving about 3mm of extra clearance. (note a crazy 13deg on the front) all these things effect many other components like drive shaft length and turnbuckle lengths etc so changing camber can only go so far with stock components.
note** asphalt tyre wear is flat for full contact patch. On carpet you need to choose the tyre that best matches your camber and castor settings with more scrutiny.
M-type +10 with Street Jam 45 degree + 7 degree camber
There is still a gap for suspension compression.
You could simply buy a wider body, but we all want that perfect look and performance. sometimes they aren't compatible, but we try our best.
You can also look into adjustable suspension arms and knuckles to push wheels out or in to maintain track.
there are lots of products (like Active Hobby) on the market these days.