Its all in the setting. Ever since I got my 2nd DRB. I've been improving in leaps and bounds. With regimented testing and evaluation sessions, I got a huge compliment today... but I'll get to that in the next post.
This is about setting.
Look at what happened to my normal 1.8x FCD belt. the DRB belt became a handbag strap. Stretchy as a rubber band. At first i thought it was the tensioner, but no tensioner is going to fix this.
This is good advertising for RC926 4mm belts. I need!
Luckily, I had already set my testing schedule for today.
Install 1.5 FCD and 3.5mm belt upgrade. but it was good to experience a failed belt. The DRB belt route is quite harsh, so you should check and upgrade when needed.
Here is the 1.5 FCD aluminum axle and plastic pulley.
To evaluate the effect of going from 1.8 to 1.5 is wierd. Simply changing the drive and no other settings, you will notice a dramatic reduction in the chassis ability to hold angle. But a dramatic increase in traction also.
This we all should know, its basic 4 wheel drive nature.
I'm running 0 degree toe on the rear which usually has no issue swinging free. but it wasn't working so well. Small adjustments to a slightly stiffer rear shock setting had the back flying out again.
The front was slightly different. I had a little under-steer after that. Slightly firmer up front became better... then... Hmmm... still not perfect.
I dialled in 2 degrees more camber than usual. 13 degrees is now the setting and about 3 degrees toe out to get the ability to pull on the front.
Mid corner control became SUPERB in conjunction with other settings! But it was a bit different to drive.
I found that pulsing the throttle allows the chassis to work it's slidey self in one-way mode off throttle, but it is fighting the FCD gear on throttle with the front wheels pulling too much. I needed something to get the rear sliding more, without pulsing the throttle.
Here's the solution. I had my other testing variable today on hand. A set of Kazama lead weights. I started testing positions on the top of the body. I tried about 8 different positions but settled on this. Not dead centre, that didn't work as well, but near centre. It will depend on each body.
After this I can say the car is now "PERFECT"
Before it was crazy style (as my HT chassis still is in 1.8 mode) but slow. now it's smooth and predictable. almost easy to drive and I battled many people today for comparison. I can say it's good!
End My Setting!
In previous weeks at MAX one I would meet a guy struggling with a drift package. He was trying very hard to get it to work. Today he showed his new chassis. Full Overdose 1.3 DRB. His struggle driving his drift package made him very good as a driver. He was doing very well first time in the DRB.
I look forward to many more battles as he goes through the setting drama stage.
Kuni-san is MAX ONE's owner. His DRB is awesome but he doesn't like it. It's tricky to get these things working well.
Early in the day. we tried running together and we couldn't get in a rhythm. It's imperative everything is working well.
I'll admit, driving with a one way axle in the car is pretty difficult. But it's tricky.
Rather than focus on this today, he switched to his TA-06 which is his perfectly setup car. FCD 1.5 and easy to put exactly where you need it to be.
So I guess what I'm trying to say is. Even if you have a $1500 chassis. Unless it's set up perfectly. You will hate it just as much as the stock drift package.
Do your best "Ganbare" Everyone. Go for the perfect setting!
As I found today... it's achievable.