Thursday, January 1, 2015

2015 Spec Check


I've added this post to the menu bar at the top of the site also.

My first 2015 checkpoint is a great way to stocktake and outline my direction for 2015.




Combination 1 for D1 style High Speed Competition.

There is no denying that Top level drift competition has become fast and aggressive. High speed handbrake and even reverse entries into long full power flowing corners and 800 hp smoke generating drag race style acceleration.  

The Real RE-86 would run a 4 rotor 26B Twin Turbo. No mucking around.


My RE-86 wears the Addiction RC rocket bunny version 1 body kit over a Tamiya 86. 


Yokomo Subaru detail parts and custom graphics create a D1 look. Wing end plates are trimmed for wall clearance. I always run Topline Mars N-Model 5 spoke +12 on this machine.


The 86 is an essential competition body shell. the front and rear 45 degree angles open up the margins for aggressive driving. Clearances become easy to manage and you can attack with ease. 


Underneath is my thoroughly tested Yokomo DRB setup. 


Overdose C-Hub and Steering combo links to Sanwa SRG-BL servo.


40-10 18-27 gear set allows a CS max of 2.2x. Perfect for constant countersteer and oodles of grip for fast running.


Power is currently Keyence 9.5T Luxon KG and Tachyon ESC. Silky Smooth delivery monitored by the MT4s.


The rear of the addiction 86 is 220mm wide. I run a light lively rear end for on and off throttle application.

Front reacts more slowly for great constant feel.
  

I still have a plan for 2015 to produce some decks for the DRB. Design is on paper but not in computer yet.

So thats the Competition Chassis.

What about fun!



Combination 2 for D1 Street Legal style Twin Drift Battles


 Nearly everyone has an S-Chassis hiding in their RC collection. So the most common platform is a good base for battling anyone and everyone.


This is one of two similar .RSG. Design bodies in 2014 initiated by Neale Fletcher. Help from super rajicon, Pandora RC, P!PES, Kazama and GCRC have created a Drift Mission showoff winner.


While the Pandora Origin Labo180sx is a long machine, it's a good body for pressure free tandem as proximity is not as aggressive as that of an 86 for example. 


Body includes Servo operated headlights and selectable light kit.


This DRb is setup for "Kogorashi" Constant Countersteer. Some people say you can get constant oversteer with CS ratio of about 1.5. that's simply rubbish. The angle you can maintain with this kind of setup is much more than that of a lower CS machine if you apply the same principles to driving technique.

The front is reduced to 45 - 9 to drop the front ratio to that rivalling rear drive only. When the vehicle speed is higher than the front drive, it creates a near RWD experience anyway.


Although I run a high power motor in this one. I increase the control over the rev range with a tiny pinion large spur. Previously running at 5.0x counter steer without issue, I've now reduced that to a playful 3.8cs which allows for a very fun setting.   


I'm using the DIB v2 front end on this one. and although needing some KPI, at the moment. Setting is pretty good allowing battles with all comers.


Overdose decks in place.


A few modifications. This is the constant battle machine.


Combination 3. For FUN / ROUGH world battles.

When it comes to FUN, You can't beat a chassis that lets you attack and go crazy.  A little more grip and a little more dynamic. It may not be the fastest out there, But my god, you can carve it up.


You can see by the damage on this RC Paradise Opel Kadett / "Gemini" that it's had a good life. 


The scars are not from big accidents or crashes. They are from little nudges and grinding along walls and clipping points, punching through grassed areas and kerbing to hound the opposition.


If you see this L plate... Usually you give a wide berth. Because you never know what I will do with this machine. It makes me smile sooo much.


The Gemini means I have to run 170mm on this machine. Offset is +1 only. Running +3 a couple of times has taken its toll on the fenders. But this character is just part of the fun and games. 


There is nothing serious about the Gemini and that's what I love about it.  Under / Over drift games, Wheel on door running, Rally adventures. It's all great! Even my Bunny strapped to the front loves the fun.

If you are always going for perfect lines and constant wall touches... life gets boring, So get a training car and have some fun in it.


Underneath, it is a bit serious. Because I want to do all these crazy things, i still need good balance.


This DRB is almost Full Overdose optioned. CS is around 3.8 I think so it's similar to the blue machine at the moment. But I'll drop it back to around 3.2 for fun. 40-9 18-27 is the setup.


Mototr is 17.5T with Airia. (reminder to turn on a bit of boost!)


Only Futaba Servo on this one. Eventually I'll get all Sanwa gear... But that's a long way off.


narrow is the key here. A stark contrast to the Addiction 86 setup.


front runs about 40g for solid turn in.


This one is the prettiest of my chasssis. But funily enough gets abused the most. haha!


Yokomo V2 Upgrade, Overdose, RC926, RC Square, Wrap Up Next , TN racing and more complete this machine.


Combination 4. Outdoor Traveller.

Welcome the FD Missile!

RE-Xtreme RC started from my love for the FD3s RX7. I have many rotary inspired bodies and this chassis combo now is the home for all things Rotary.

Orange D1 2002 Asamoto FD3s Replica,
Black D1 666 Fd3s and the missile shown here. 


I use this body shell to perfect the balance of the chassis before swapping to one of the others for battle.

In this way, the aerodynamics / weight and offset do not change. I can simply swap bodies without changing setup at all.


As you can see I've done a lot of miles with this one.


Had a lot of battles too. 


This Pandora RC shell is a prototype sample that was presented to me when I lived in Japan. So I will use it for as long as I can repair it.


It's become more aggressive recently to keep a similar feel to my Asamoto FD. Wider fenders accomodate +11 offset. 


4 year old Yokomo light set has died from my own stupidity. Pulling the body on and off so many times placed stress on the connections from the wires into the board itself. Eventually one day the wires were torn from the circuit board. haha!  


The chassis you see here is a Yokomo Drift Package "Drift Master" version. The exposed gear sets are the main feature.

Adjustable heigh shock tops give extra gound clearance on bumpy surfaces.


A narrower easily adjustable motor position is another feature.


Original Drift Master Steering designed for touring car / 50:50 drifting has been replaced by a slide rack.


Steering was repositioned as the mounting points differ from the original drift package. Team Suzuki arms and DPM knuckles provide enough steering.

Front Spice gearset and rear 2.0 provides a grunty torque munching 3.4 CS with high turn motor for maximum speed and fun.


Some re-drilling of the super stiff chassis plate has been made for a larger spur and use of the slide rack. But as the target is for outdoor use, I expect this plate to get more scratched.

This is my indestructible drift package. some minor additions will be adjustable overdose sus mounts early in the new year..


Combination 5 for scale realism.

Hidari Maru S14. The Crazy Bonkers Rear Wheel Drive only machine. 


This Body was made in Japan by a friend and for almost a year, every day off we'd run side by side at MAX-ONE. When I returned to Australia, MAX-ONE closed down and the owner of this body, presented it to me. In return my Red 86 lives in Japan.


This shell is super heavy and contains all manner of upgrades. 


every part has been modified. 


It's travelled around Japan's circuits and received it's share of sticker swaps.


Underneath, with help of friends, this RWD imadoki drift package, started as a plastic tub, then received active link suspension and wrapup next FR-D style front end and a host of mods. 


It's far from stock. The active suspension setup allows chassis roll with or without active camber change. A loose ball diff sits in the rear gear case to transfer power from the 21.5T Keyence Luxon KG. 


It now runs a lot of non-standard items.

I called My chassis the DP-R at the end of 2012 But now I call it the DPi-R with the use of the imadoki chassis plate.

Yokomo has been a bit slow onto the RWD bandwagon. But are getting there. For new comers. in 2015 Yokomo will release the DP-R which will be a complete high end 4wd chassis but remove the drive shaft and it will be very very similar chassis to what you see here.


High angle, narrow scrub radius front end for RWD. I have included a slide rack, but the imadoki wipers are honestly good enough.


I'm using the MST gyro, MSt tyres and other items.

Benedini Rc sound system is an interesting item. Just enough noise.Not too much to be offensive.


Some alloy rear sus mounts will soon be installed.And I think some Kazama Sustex open gear cases will complete this one.


My front gear case is opened to allow for weight to be stored as needed.


The chassis plate was from another RWD supporter and I will be using this more throughout 2015.

These RWD machines are starting to perform better and better so it's about time to join the fray.


Combination 6. The Spare.


Full overdose means going that extra step.


Overdose Towers, Motor Mount, front support, spur holder, knuckles, and more will be transferred to the blue machine.


other components will be swapped onto this donor chassis.


What will remain will be a solid Overdose DRB that will serve as a great high end chassis that will be great for someone to go further in the Hobby. 

You know... There's always something going on.


For 2015.. this build will be replacing the Yellow D1 Spec competition body.

Have a great year.

Russell Gander
RE-Xtreme RC Division.
re-xtreme-rc@hotmail.com


No comments:

Post a Comment

Got a question or a comment. It doesn't hurt to ask.