Saturday, June 1, 2013

RE-DP Spirit "R" - Testing

Today was productive. I have a clear setting direction for the DP-RWD

I started out testing on concrete with varying success. But it was good to determine weight balance.

I ended up with 100 grams on one side to balance the motor vs battery. Heavier 4000 battery was of course better and required 60 gram ballast compared to the 3300.

Funny thing was ... I kept spinning out a lot until I remembered to increase the steering EPA.
Then I was getting some response.

The main issues I had was traction vs grip. I used a lot of different damper settings and eventually went quite hard on the front with soft/medium and super soft/ultra-soft  at the rear. but I will probably go hard on the front as I needed a lot of preload.

The rear is also supporting 220grams of temporary weight placed centrally on the diffuser.

Here you can see a gyro installed on a nice ally plate. but...

1. no instructions. But how hard is it? just plug it in.
2. after plugged in there was no response on any level with the Sanwa. no function = useless.
3. It then broke a wire straight off it's circuit board when I unplugged it. Unrepairable ... so

I crushed it in the vice.

I guess I won't be using a gyro. hahahaha. It was useless. R2 hobbies. I actually expected more for $12

I guess I shouldn't expect anything.

With asphalt proving very difficult to get the tyre balance right I moved to carpet where I have a greater range of tyre choices. I was still chasing rear traction.

My regular Spice tyres were good on the front but with all 4 tyres the same I couldn't get the traction I needed.

Front is 7 deg camber,  and about 10 castor.

Rear is 7 camber, but it rises to about 3 deg under squat.

 I have these En Route tyres. They have always had a bit more grip than the spice tyres in 4wd mode, being a bit faster!

As soon as I put them on... Success.

The balance was right.

To me, Rear Wheel Drive seems to need that solid, planted soft rear end and a bit more grip in the back.

1. for propulsion and 2. for weighted braking.

Without the weight on the rear it would simply slide too much with the front gripping under dive and the rear simply unweighted so it would spin.

I may run some more anti-dive to aid off throttle transitions.

I was now able to adjust my dampers with 1/4 turns for good reaction and adjustment of slide much like my other chassis do.

So I went back into the workshop and started to clean up the chassis. Re-shimmed all the loose bits, adjusted the body to the right position and prepared a second set of tyres on these Weds SA-55M

I'm going to have to make my own purpose designed chassis weights.

I can see why the FR-D guys in Japan run weights on the rear hubs. I'll be designing some to install on the diffuser and rear hubs also.

But I have a much better grasp on the needs of Rear Wheel Drive now.

I can see how a gyro would help, but the steering on my car is so quick I can catch it most of the time.
you have to concentrate a lot, but once you get the hang of it, you are soon able to relax a bit and place the car better. I did take a small video but I doubt I'll show it. I'll wait until I get somewhere larger.

I just need a big flat area to test now.


  1. You could use the bumper weights made by Yokomo, I don't know how heavy they are but there's 5 of 'me for nearly $7

  2. Do not buy the cheap crap from clone companies such as R2, laughter ... you Santa Claus, hope that shit, something else is it?

    What were you thinking? R2 gear system of Yokomo is an insult.

  3. I know R2 is rubbish.
    I wasn't expecting much. But I did expect it to work.

  4. It was a mistake of your first. Company they do not consider the sale clone products is criminal, do not have a responsibility to sell their products that work.

    Criminals is criminal, yes?

    You live, you learn, you boycott.

    1. I know the quality of R2, Tabao, Hobby King and others.
      I have bought a few things to sample and review quality.

      I don't recommend them. -> you can see the links on my site in the "Junk Links (follow at own risk)" section.

      I am a big supporter of true OEMs.
      I have spent thousands and thousands of dollars on Tamiya, Yokomo, Street Jam, Kazama etc.

  5. Giving any money to R2 is funding the death of our hobby, at least in my opinion.

    I don't see it as an issue of quality, more of a moral thing. They could make the best parts in the world for pennies and I still wouldn't buy them.

    It's a personal choice though.

    1. I sometimes sample the crap to make sure.
      I can confirm, everything I have purchased has in fact been rubbish.

      We should make a list.

      Hobby King

      any others?


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