Monday, August 4, 2014

RE-Xtreme chassis and maintenance

Some might say this is too many... I totally agree.

I have the Typhoon silver, Samurai red and Tsunami blue DRBs in pretty good spec.

I'll document the setting very soon.

The Silver 2.2x high speed machine has been finished for some time. I've been using the Red 3.0x overdose machine a lot and it's spec is pretty solid. just the odd tweek required for battle partner matching.  

The blue DRb 5.0 and Red machine in 4.4 spec were causing issues.

I narrowed down some of the bearing deaths to the kazama adjustable pulley mount. The base of the mount was so uneven, it was causing the whole piece to "rock, twist and roll" under power, therefore twisting the bearings on it and eventually causing them to fail.

The quality of this piece was extremely disappointing.  So I've adjusted the base to be flat, upgraded the bearings and made sure the pulley was running on the correct shaft instead of a screw.

I'll be bracing the bottom section like a vertex mount for greater strength.

DRb owners will know that the Hyper Drive Bridge area needs to be solid and resist flex.

Some shock maintenance for me always includes 20 rear and 60 front. A slow front and quick rear suits my style.

So whats next...

Well the electronics for the RWD are here and just require install. and a little de-anodising will complete that one.

A few motor swaps have occurred between my cars also.

so that leaves the Drift Master 3.4 for finality.


  1. love how you color code your chassis haha mine looks like a rainbow,but it gets the job done

  2. Russ,you wrote 60 oil for a slow front.a pretty good drifter said to me that if you make your front hard it will react too fast causing the cs action to straighten the car.the front will pull you out of the drift.he sais make it light very soft in order to promote roll and SLOW your steering response.i have a sacura d3 running on asphault what would you do.some help please

    1. There are many ways people like their setups. Depends if you like roll or not. Do you want speed or slide? Some like my setups, some don't. It's all "Style" with drift.

      Do you wan't alot of roll and then fight the camber change? Or do you want to add a roll mod to stop the geometry changes when the chassis rolls? A lot of these new sus mods like bagi and VX arms fight the geometry changes of the stock chassis.

      You can do anything. I've tried a lot of different cars and this suits my style.

      Some people run 20:20 all round.
      Some people run 80:80 all round
      some people run 40:40 all round
      some people run 80:no oil in the rear

      There are many reasons why I setup my cars like this. but the main one is off throttle control.

      Anyway... try different things. I'm always changing stuff.

    2. well you are right.i run on asphault.the stock cs 2.14 for the d3 is too much for the slippery asphault i run.i have gone to 63% and i will try 650cst front 150cst rear,just like you said.with 350 front i didnt have traction but i want to try a harder front like you said.thank you for your answer Russ always helpful!i am STEVETC5R on driftmission by the way.i read your blog daily for 3 years now and i have learnt a lot from you

    3. Asphalt also has many grip levels. But its all fun. I run Yokomo R2 on asphalt. CS 2.14 would seem enough. I have many chassis with the comp spec tuned at 2.2, but others are 3.0, 3.4 and 5.0 craziness that hold a much more realistic look. There are sooo many ways to tune a chassis/ body combo. Weight / power / suspension / aero / and sooo many other things to tune for. You pick up things here and there, but those you run with will have the biggest influence over your setup. If every one is similar, the close proximity comes naturally.


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